Mudd Puppies Blog

Training duration and frequency

2011-11-05T14:00:00.001-05:00

I just finished reading an interesting paper on how often you should train. I mean I literally just finished it, so I may have some other thoughts later.

This study was just published a little over a month ago, and it has lit up a lot of the discussion boards I'm on. I believe it is an important study in that it is the first real look at how often you should train your dog for the optimum acquisition of a behavior, but the biggest flaw - which was discussed at length on one of the boards - is that the dogs used were laboratory animals used for drug testing that did not have the same stimulus as a household pet, for example.

That being said, to put my interpretation to the findings, it shows that it is just as important for the dogs to have time to process the information they have learned as the training session themselves. What the study found was that one session, one time a week showed the best acquisition of the behavior. The worst were the dogs who were trained in three back to back sessions every day.

My initial thoughts are pretty much the same as before I read the study, although I may have other ideas as I think over what I've read. Particularly when you first start training your dog, keep the sessions short. I recommend in my puppy classes that you start with about five minute training sessions once a day. Always keep an eye on your dogs stress and frustration level and if they are getting too stressed, frustrated, or distracted, stop. Once the dog starts getting used to the training you can extend the time, although I usually don't recommend going over 15 minutes. Also, once they start to figure out the training process, you may be able to train two or three times a day.

Unfortunately, we can't draw any definite conclusions until more research is done, but this is a start. For the time being, keep your training sessions short, fun, and be aware of the state of your dog. If he's not having fun, stop and come back to it later.

Demant, H., et al., The effect of frequency and duration of training sessions on acquisition and long-term memory in dogs. Appl. Anim. Behav. Sci. (2011), doi:10.1016/j.applanim.2011.05.010

Try this at home

2011-10-06T13:22:00.002-05:00

First I wanted to apologize for being silent on the blog for so long. As I mentioned in my last entry, we've been making a lot of changes and adding some new features (check out our newsletter for one) and these things take time. We've also been working on several outside projects including Paws in the Park and the upcoming Open House at Columbia Canine Sports Center this weekend. Hopefully, once again, I can get back to the blog and share some relevant information about training, behavior, and the like.

There has been a lot of discussion in the forums I participate in on disclosure of training techniques. I would be apprehensive of anyone who is not willing to share their methods. Usually these equate to some method of aversive training, aversive being hurting your dog to get him to do what you want. This is not always the case, but see my blog on choosing a trainer.

So, with that in mind, here is my training method. I'll try to stay to the point and not add too much back information here, but save it for another time.

It is important to understand that a dog, or any animal, learns more for being reinforced for the behavior you want than punished for the behavior you don't. If you reinforce the desired behavior, the dog, person, chinchilla, or whatever will try harder each successive time. Using punishment, the dog will only do enough to avoid being punished.

For most of my training I use what is called "marker training," also known as "clicker training." I like to use a clicker because it is a distinct sound that carries over a lot of other noises. In class I teach the use of the word "yessssss," drawing out the "s" to make it distinct from just saying "yes" in normal conversation. You can use whatever you like. It works like this: I start with charging the marker. You simple click and give the dog a treat, click and give the dog a treat, click and give the dog a treat. This teaches the dog that every time he hears the click, good things happen.

I'll use a sit for this example, just for clarity's sake. You can wait for the dog to sit on his own, or you can lure the dog into position. As soon as the dog's bottom hits the floor, click and treat. Do this a few times. Then add the word "sit." By this time he should know the behavior you're looking for and will sit quickly on his own. If not, lure him into position, click and treat.

Usually you only want to spend about five minutes on training at a time to begin with. You can go up to about 15 minutes, but I don't recommend any more than that in one session.

Most trainings I've talked to or read say if the dog does the behavior five to seven times in a row without fail, you can move to the next step. In this case, the next step would be duration. Ask for the sit. When the dog sits, delay the click and treat for about a second. Once he can do this, move up to two seconds, then three, then five, etc. Be sure to go at a slow enough pace that your dog doesn't get frustrated, but fast enough to keep his interest.

Suppose in the first session you get a three second sit. Next session, take a step or two back and just go for a one or two second sit. This should go pretty fast and you should be able to move past it and past the three second sit quickly.

One thing detractors often say about this method is they don't want their dog working for treats. This is a total misunderstanding of the method. Just like people work for a paycheck or do hobbies for enjoyment, we want the dog to work because he wants to. But, for basic obedience in particular, the point is to have the dog offer the behavior in real life situations when you may not have a treat handy or the dog is not in "training mode."

So, a word about fading treats. Once the dog is sitting consistently, ask for a sit, click and treat. Ask for a sit, say "good boy" and give lots of praise. ask for a sit, click and treat. Ask for a sit, "good boy." Next session, ask for a sit, click and treat. Ask for a sit, "good boy." Ask for a sit, "good boy." Ask for a sit, click and treat. You want to put the click and treat on an intermittent schedule so the behavior is only occasionally reinforced that way. Because the sit has a history of being reinforced with a treat, his emotional response will be the same whether the treat is delivered or not. (You should never click without giving a treat or it will start to lose its effectiveness. This is why I like to use "good boy.) For "proofing," you may want to reinforce the sit with a click and treat from time to time. Because I think a sit is so important, I start each training session with a sit, click and treat to get my dogs into the training mindset, then I end the session with a sit so we always end on a good note but also to proof the behavior.

I won't get into problem behaviors here because this is about my training techniques, not behavior modification. If you have questions about that though leave them here or feel free to e-mail me.

Two final thoughts. First, I try to never prompt (touch or force) the dog into position. Pushing on the hips to get a dog to sit, for example, can cause or aggravate hip problems and although they make take a little longer to figure it out, once they know you want them to sit, they've got it, and a lot better than if they wait for you to put them in position. Second, I never punish a dog for the wrong behavior, but reinforce the right behavior. If the dog is doing something he shouldn't, I don't tell him what I don't want, but what I do want. I simply can't understand why someone would want a dog if they felt it was going to be a constant struggle to maintain some misconception of dominance. I want a companion and hope the same for you.

If you want to learn more about my techniques, here's an excellent list of some of my favorite books to get you started:

Family Friendly Dog Training by Patricia McConnell and Aimee Moore

The Puppy Primer by Patricia McConnell and Brenda Skidmore

Clicker Training for Dogs by Karen Pryor

The Thinking Dog: Crossover to Clicker Training by Gail Tamases Fisher

Ch-Ch-Ch-Changes

2011-08-02T13:11:00.001-05:00

We've been in business a little over three years. Now that we know how things are working and what's not, it's time to make a few changes. Hopefully all good.

If you follow our Facebook page, you know that we'll be changing our prices on August 15. Instead of just an average price across the board, we're making the price coincide with the size of the dog. We will still give a discount for a second dog of equal or lesser cost.

While on the topic of social media, we've also started a Twitter account at Mudd_Pupps_CoMO. At present, the plan is for this will be a place to list in-store events and possibly some specials or online coupons.

Another change will be the punch cards will now be kept at the store. This will hopefully be one less thing to worry about. Cards tend to be forgotten, lost, or destroyed by water. This should eliminate these problems.

Next, I'm considering starting a monthly newsletter. My intention for this is to have an article or two on dog training, hygiene, or something along those lines. I will also have a calender of events around town that are dog friendly. Let me know if there is anything else you'd like to see and I'll try to get in all reasonable ideas.

I'm looking into expanding our retail section. If there are any products you would like to see, let me know and I'll check into it. Keep in mind that I will not carry anything that I wouldn't use on my own dog including choke chains, pinch collars, spray collars, shock collars, or any other aversive equipment. More information about that in my other posts, or feel free to ask me.

Another idea I had was to set up a photography studio in the store. In my previous life I was a photographer and graphic artist. I think it would be fun to do, but need to explore the idea a bit more and make sure I'm not overextending myself. I'll keep you posted.

I am also considering having activities at the store. Possible about training, grooming, or other areas of interest. This will be something we need to explore a bit more also.

At the risk of getting too personal, I left a very lucrative career as a graphic artist to work with dogs. Sure, I want to make a living at it too, but I really love what I'm doing. So if you have any ideas, thoughts, comments, or even constructive criticism, let us know and we will seriously consider it.

How to Alpha Roll

2011-06-18T12:15:00.000-05:00

In a word: DON'T

This topic has come up in a few forums I participate in. As usual, I've put a link to an excellent article at the end of this entry but wanted to add a few thoughts of my own.

The Alpha Roll was popularized by The Monks of New Skete in their book "The Art of Raising a Puppy." In the second edition they retracted and apologized for the advice. Dogs just don't do it, and people do not have the capability to read the signals if it were appropriate.

In the 30+ years Dr. David Mech has been studying wolves, he said in an interview that only three times has he seen what he would consider an Alpha Roll (if I remember correctly, but certainly less than five). But this also goes back to what I've said before, that dogs are not wolves.

So, what are we seeing? Remember that dominance is not a personality trait, but an aspect of a relationship. Just because one dog is being aggressive or acting inappropriately, it does not mean he is dominant. He does not become dominant until the other dog submits. However, that relationship may change in seconds.

Take for example if I'm walking down the street and someone walks up to me and punches me in the face. Who's dominant? If I fall on the ground crying then I have made the other person dominant in that situation by submitting. But what if I hit them back? Does that make me dominant? It all depends on what the other person does. And so it goes.

Back to the question, what are we seeing? One thing may be play behavior. Play in dogs is usually mock hunting or mock sexual behavior. In mock hunting, the dogs will chase, nip, soft-bite, etc. One dog may roll over on his back, exposing his belly, but the dog does this willingly. This can also be a way for one to say to the other "I'm am not a threat. We are just playing."

In another instance, we need to remember that dogs are much more scent oriented than we are. When greeting, we've all seen dogs sniff each other's back sides and genitals. One dog my roll over to expose their genitals and make them more accessible.

And another instance would be access to a resource, whether it's a toy, food, or whatever one or both dogs may want. In the face of a potential conflict, one dog may submit to the other saying "you want that much more than I do, so you go ahead." As shown the Bristol study ("Dominance in domestic dogs – useful construct or bad habit?," October 2009) that may change depending on the next resource, situation and desire for that resource.

The take away message is that dogs are not dominant by nature, they do not Alpha Roll, and even if they did, we could not tell when it would be appropriate, and all it does is scare your dog and damage your relationship.

http://companionanimalsolutions.com/blogs/dangers-of-alpha-rolling/

Bite Prevention Week

2011-05-16T11:51:00.000-05:00

Sunday marked the beginning of Bite Prevention Week. Since opening the store I've been bitten four times. Three of them were my fault and one of them was partially my fault (I turned my back on a dog I knew to be people aggressive and the owner lost their attention for a split second). Fortunately all of the bites were very inhibited and didn't even break the skin.

I only mention this to illustrate a point. I've studied dog behavior and communication. I've probably been around thousands of dogs. And still I've had occasion to be bitten. So how do you avoid being bitten?

1. If you are unfamiliar with the dog, ask before petting.

2. Do not approach a dog head on. Notice when dogs greet, they tend to approach each other at an angle. When I greet an unfamiliar dog who seems a bit uneasy, I kneel down and position myself sideways. I then extend my hand just far enough so he can approach me, but not so close that I invade his space.

3. Know the signs. Dogs communicate with body language. Most dogs who may bite are fear bitters, meaning they bite because they are scared and are trying to get the person to back away. But the bite is usually a last ditch effort.

Signs to look for can include lowered head and/or body, ears close to the head and back, tail down and between the legs, lip licking, yawning, looking away, piloerection (hair standing up), snarling, growling, etc. A side note: These behaviors should not be punished. This is how dogs communicate they are uncomfortable. Instead you should try to diffuse the situation and work on some desensitization, a blog for another time.

A final note, and then a few links to illustrations: It doesn't matter how "good" you are with animals, some dogs are not going to like you. You can be the kindest, most gentle person in the world, but you may have to same hair color as someone who startled the dog, for example. That's just the way it is. It does not mean you should put yourself in peril or overstress a dog to the point that he may bite.

Dr. Sophia Yin has a great PSA put together. It's a little over 30 seconds long, but you may want to pause it a few times to check all the information: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrQ1KO4j2bc

This is a poster, also from Dr. Yin, on the more common signals I mentioned above, free for download: http://info.drsophiayin.com/free-poster-on-body-language-in-dogs/

Name Change

2011-05-08T13:17:00.000-05:00

I was thinking about how I wanted to approach this and it reminded me that I haven't posted some information I intended to. So let me start by saying the Central Missouri Humane Society has been overwhelmed lately and is looking for foster homes. I'll have more information about that up shortly, but consider fostering if you have the space and desire to help out.

That being said, we're also seeing a lot of dogs coming in that have been recently adopted. (Reminder that dogs who have been adopted from a non-profit get a 50% discount on self-serve washes within the first 30 days of adoption.) Some of the dogs get a name change with their new life, so I wanted to give a few tips to make this go smoothly and quickly.

Remember that all good things should come from you. A dog will come to you more consistently if it is a good thing. For example, when you take your dog to the park, call him, praise him, and then let him go back to playing, sniffing, or whatever. About the fourth or fifth time you call him, he is much more likely to come so you can put the leash on him and go home. Hearing his name and coming to you is not always a bad thing. So his name becomes a good thing.

When you want to change a dogs name, there are two easy ways to do this. First is just simply using the name. Every time you interact with the dog, use his new name. Not sweety, or silly or good boy (unless that his name). Without getting into the science of this, he should quickly learn that this is his new name. This worked for both our dogs, Lambert and Cletus... I mean Puck and Duncan.

The second way you can do this is more of a classical training (or respondent conditioning) technique. Say the dog's new name. When he looks at you, give him a treat. Repeat this until he looks at you quickly and consistently. After he looks at you without hesitation about five times you can start to fade the treat. Give the treat every second or third time. eventually you can fade the treat completely. I would have every member in the family do this so the dog learns to respond to everyone.

If this goes slow at first, back up in the procedure a little. Say the dog's old name. As soon as he looks at you, say the new name. Repeat this a few times until he understands the new name means treat, then go to the steps in the previous paragraph.

Again, until he responds consistently to his new name, you want to avoid using "pet" names (pun intended) for him, just to avoid confusion.

A little more about methods

2011-04-26T13:23:00.002-05:00

When I talk to other trainers I tend to get specific and speak in scientific terms. Things like Differential Reinforcement, Discriminative Stimulus, the Four Quadrants, etc. When I speak to customers, students, or the public at large, I tend to speak in much broader, general terms. It's kind of like me not needing to know about programming when I get my computer worked on. I did want to get a little more specific though about something I mentioned in my last blog: clicker or marker training.

In my last blog, I grossly generalized clicker training. Now that we have the basics, I wanted to get a little more specific. Basically how it works is you use a unique stimulus to mark a behavior. This is a way to tell the dog he has done something correctly at the moment it occurs. Because the marker (click or a specific word) has been paired with a reinforcer (food, praise, etc.), it tells the dog that when he hears the marker a reinforcer is coming. It really isn't so much a training technique as it is a system of reinforcement.

I like to use a clicker because it is a unique sound that carries very well over most noise. In class we tend to use the word "yesssss," drawing out the "s" to make the sound unique so as not to be confused with just saying "yes" in regular conversation. This saves you from having to carry around something extra in your pocket. For the purposes of the rest of the blog I'll refer to "click" as whatever marker you like to use. I will also refer to any reinforcer you care to use as "treat" even though it can be praise, a favorite toy, or anything the dog enjoys.

First you have to start by "charging" the clicker. You simply have the dog close to you, click and treat. The treat should follow the click within about a second to be the most effective. The more the dog wants the treat, the faster this will work. It should only take very few repetitions before he starts to associate the sound with the reinforcer. Once this pairing has taken place you will be able to delay the delivery of the treat because the click will elicit the same emotional response as the treat. I was able to charge the clicker with my dogs in about 2 minutes, but would start any training for about 2 more weeks by charging, just to make sure it was stable.

Now, if I am working on a sit, I can ask Duncan to sit, and as soon as his bottom hits the floor, click and treat. If I'm working on target training, as soon as his nose hits the target, click and treat. Whatever the training, as soon as it happens, I can mark it and he knows a treat is coming.

The two most common questions I hear at this point are "How do you get the behavior for a longer period of time?" and "What if you don't have a clicker or treat handy?"

To get the behavior to last longer, we'll take the sit for an example. Have the dog sit, and as soon as he's sitting, click and treat. Once he's sitting without any prompting five to ten times in a row, you can delay the click and treat for about a second. Once he's doing that amount of time consistently, you can delay the click and treat for two seconds, then three, and so on.

Something to remember at this point is to keep the training sessions short at first. You may only want to do about five minutes at first, and in that time you may only get a three second sit inconsistently. In the next training session you'll want to back up one or two steps before you move forward. Once he gets used to the training routine you can go for about 15 minutes, but usually it's not recommended to go longer than that. You can do two or three training sessions a day, but be aware of your dog's boredom and/or stress levels.

The point of training a behavior is so the dog will respond in real-life situations. In real-life, you won't always have a clicker or treats on hand. If you don't have a treat, don't click. The click means a treat is coming and if you that pairing doesn't happen, it will begin to lose its affect.

When you ask for a behavior - we'll use the sit again - if the behavior has a history of being reinforced, he is more likely to offer the behavior even if it does not get the click and treat. You don't want to do this too often, but enough that you will get a response in those real-life instances. Think of a slot machine. A person may not be reinforced - hit a jackpot - every time they put a quarter in, but it happens often enough that some people will still offer the behavior - keep playing - for hours on end. As long as the behavior has a history of reinforcement, there's no reason you can't get the behavior at any time.

Something to keep in mind with clicker training: it was popularized with training sea mammals. This is how killer whales and dolphins are trainer. It has also been shown to work by coaches training athletes such as swimmers and gymnasts. It can work on any vertebrate from fish to lizards to dogs.

Maybe later I'll do an entry about why clicker training works so well, but this is more about method, so I'll stop there for now.

Choosing a Trainer and Method

2011-04-17T15:38:00.000-05:00

Many of you know I've been sick for a while. Unfortunately, the medicine I was on was an antidepressant that had the side effect of helping my ailment. Good for my headaches, but it made me very unmotivated. So one of the things to suffer was the Mudd Puppies Blog. I'm off the meds and trying to play catch up now. Hopefully I can get back to my schedule of every two weeks to a month. But, enough about that.

Well, a couple of things have gotten me thinking. If you read this blog regularly, you know last October I received my Dog Training Certificate from Companion Animals Sciences Institute (CASI). Since then I have been assisting at the Columbia Canine Sports Center (CCSC). I have the book learnin', now it's time to get the hands on experience.

Last week I sat through the orientation for students as a refresher and to get my next "assignment" for the next session with CCSC. I spoke with Kathy and Ginger after orientation and was surprised when they asked if I wanted to teach a class. After I was able to collect myself I told them I just needed a little time to get a lesson plan together but I'd be willing to give it a try. Truth be told, I'm very excited and very nervous about this, but I've started working on a lesson plan for a puppy class and basic obedience class and believe I'll be teaching next session.

What will be taught is the easy part. What I'm struggling with is the class discussions. I have so much information running around in my head from what I learned with CASI, blogs I read, videos I watch, journals I read, and other trainers I talk to. Not only am I trying to decide what to include, but how to keep it short, concise, and in a way that the students will retain the information.

The thing I've been thinking about the most is training methods. Not what method/s I intend to teach, but how I'll answer if someone asks when they should alpha roll their dog or what to do when their dog tries to dominate them. I saw a video the other day of a trainer touting the virtues of shock collars. These have many different names, but let's call them what they are. I was appalled that this trainer's (I wish I could remember his name, but I tried to erase it from my memory) technique was to slap a shock collar on a dog and call it training. The dogs are trained. A behavior is evoked in the presence of a stimuli, but where's the fun in that for anyone?

I have to wonder why some people get dogs. What's the point if the relationship is a constant struggle. I don't want to spend my time disciplining my dogs. I'd rather have a relationship with a dog who can think for himself and has learned how to make the right decision. I'd rather have a dog that looks to me for the right thing to do, not a dog that cowers because they aren't sure what to do.

I read and hear a lot of people say that dominance is the only thing that works on "red zone cases," but this is absolutely not the case. Most of the cases behaviorists see are aggression cases. The behaviorists I follow have been dealing with "red zone" cases longer than some tv personalities have been alive with as good or better rate of success. Most aggression in dogs stems from fear or insecurity. So first of all, what good is going to come from making a fear aggressive dog fear you? Second, if a fear aggressive dog is fearful, what is the natural response going to be except to protect himself. And third, if you use aversives to train a dog, if he doesn't totally shut down, or even if he does, there is the risk that eventually he will try to protect himself by aggressing. Why risk it when other, less aversive techniques are proven to work?

I personally don't believe you can be an all positive reinforcement trainer. It says to me that a dog can do no wrong or you totally ignore any inappropriate behavior. I would certainly not just sit and watch if one of my dogs raised his leg on the coffee table, for example. I also accept the fact that I use positive punishment - introducing a stimuli to lessen the frequency of a behavior. When I say "no" I've added a stimuli - the word - to lessen the frequency of a behavior - peeing on the coffee table. The most important thing is to use the "least intrusive effective behavior intervention" as James O'Heare calls it.

Why alpha roll your dog if he nips you when a sharp, quick cry of mock pain can teach him bite inhibition? Why use a shock collar to train your dog to sit when using a treat that can be faded can be used to lure him into position and he will learn to enjoy it? Why use aversives to teach an aggressive dog not to be aggressive when you can change the behavior instead of suppressing it by desensitizing him?

One of the things to look for in a trainer is their technique. I see a lot of trainers say positive reinforcement doesn't work, but shock collars do, choke chains do, or whatever method. Any training technique can work as defined above. The thing to remember is it's not an either/or decision.

Positive reinforcement can be clicker training, or target training for example. But you may also incorporate negative punishment - removing a stimuli to decrease the frequency of a behavior. An example of this might be turning your back to a dog - removing your attention - and crossing your arms when a dog jumps up on you. When searching for a trainer, remember that positive reinforcement is not a training method, it defines the method. Likewise, a clicker trainer, although this is my preferred method, may narrow their technique to the point of excluding any other possibilities. A trainer needs to be open to any technique that can work best for each individual dog while remembering to use the least intrusive effective behavior intervention possible.

Before choosing a trainer, find out what they mean by "all positive trainer" or "balanced trainer" or even "clicker trainer." The answer should be that your dog is going to enjoy the training as much as you do.

I want to leave you with two links.

This is another take on choosing a trainer:
http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/when-choosing-dog-trainer-buyer-beware

This is a great example on how to train a dog with an aggression problem:
http://drsophiayin.com/resources/video_full/counter-conditioning_a_dog_to_blowing_in_face

Dogs walking ahead

2011-04-13T13:20:00.002-05:00

This goes back to one of my favorite topics: dominance. Specifically, dogs walking ahead.

So, here's the scenario: I had stepped out of our walk-out basement the other day with Duncan, my Brittany. When we came in, Duncan went in the door first and went up the stairs ahead of me. How many indications of dominance do you see in this scenario?

Okay, I held a few things back, just to get to my point. First, consider locomotion, or the way we move. Bipedal locomotion is very impractical when compared to the alternative. Sure it has its advantages. Some scientist believe standing upright is a major contributing factor to our high intelligence as a species. But think about the species that can choose between walking on two legs or four. The first that come to my mind are bears and gorillas. When they want to move quickly or more efficiently they move on all fours.

Dogs are designed to move on all fours. They simply move faster than we do. How often have you seen someone chasing after a dog who is quickly outdistancing them? Consider that the second fastest land animal, after the Cheetah, is the dog - specifically the Greyhound.

So back to the previous scenario. When I was ready to go back inside, I called Duncan. He ran up to the door and I told him "back" so I could get the door open. I then told him "inside" because I didn't want to trip over him and the way the door is positioned it's awkward to hold it open while I wait for him to come in. He waited for me in the basement while I locked the door and when he saw me coming he started up the stairs. I'd rather have him go first than try to pass me because I'm slower than he is. He would walk up three or four steps, stop and look at me to check if I was still coming, up three or four more and check, all the way up. Even with his stopping and going, he still made it up the stairs much quicker than me.

All of this taken together does not at any time show a dominate dog. It shows my consideration for both of our safety and my understanding that this is a dog who can move more efficiently than I can. It does not show a dog who is trying to dominate me, but a dog who listens and constantly checks with me because he wants to be with me.

Challenge

2011-03-09T16:52:00.000-06:00

I've been at a loss for topics lately. That, coupled with my evenings getting a bit busier has made me neglectful of this blog. Part of my schedule has been taken up by my helping at the Columbia Canine Sports Center. As followers of this blog know, I received my Dog Training Certificate from Companion Animal Sciences Institute last October. Now, thanks to CCSC, I'm taking that classroom knowledge and applying it to real life situations.

I'm currently assisting in my third class with as many instructors. Each one has something unique to offer and has me constantly thinking about what pieces I want to implement when I start leading my own classes, and what parts can I leave behind. I should preface this by saying I haven't disagreed with any of the techniques, it's just a matter of preferences.

I also spend my time reading blogs, journals, newsletters, articles, research papers, and just about anything else I can get my hands on. Of course I give preference to those people who seem to fall in line with my way of thinking, but I try to read those which I don't agree with when I have time. It helps keep me abreast of the discussions in the field and what the stance is of both sides of any argument. I hope I am open minded enough, that if a viable argument was presented I would incorporate the new found knowledge into my own philosophies and techniques.

So, what this is all leading to: It really irks me when some of these people turn to name calling and trash talk when they disagree with someone. Maybe it's just the sites I frequent, but it's not surprising to me that usually the ones who start casting aspersions are the people who subscribe to force training and dominance theory. Even in the face of hard scientific evidence they refuse to deviate from their beliefs.

Something to consider is the definition of training. In simplest, scientific terms, training is the change of behavior in the presence of a stimulus. So is force training or dominance actually training? By definition, it is. But it is at the risk of flooding or learned helplessness. Not only do these techniques risk damaging the relationship, but the trainee will usually only perform the behavior to the point of avoiding the aversive.

With these techniques, the trainer is not teaching what is expected, but rather what behavior is unwanted. For instance, asking a dog to sit but he stands. A leash jerk is applied, and the dog doesn't learn to sit, but learns NOT to stand.

With a reinforcement training, the desired behavior is reinforced. The trainee is learning what IS expected. Not only will you get the desired behavior, but in the long run the trainee will not only present the desired behavior, but will offer it in better qualities and quantities.

Another argument along the same vein is that there is not just one way to train or teach. I agree completely. I've worked with and trained using target training, marker training, and, I'm loathe to say, dominance training, just to name a few. But at the end of the day I want a dog that is going to do what I ask because he WANTS to, not because he feels he HAS to.

Truth be told, I've gotten into discussions with other reinforcement trainers with whom I disagreed. But I've learned so much from them, even if it was just finding the evidence to backup and reinforce my position. And these people, I've always had very frank, open discussion that did not deteriorate to name calling.

In my blogs, I try to present an overview of the information, then give a list of resources so you can read it for yourself and draw your own conclusions. The information is out there. I challenge everyone to read it and draw your own conclusion, and not just get your information from sensationalized television shows.

One "Jerk"

2011-02-03T10:31:00.000-06:00

Mudd Puppies Self Serve Dog Wash, LLC
I know I've talked about this before, but it always bares repeating. A friend just shared an excellent article/blog with me about the dangers of choke collars. Here are a few things to help keep this in perspective.

It's been determined that dogs feel pain about the same way people do. The difference is dogs are still predatory enough that it is preferable to mask or hide pain. If a predator shows pain or weakness they then become prey, so it is better to hide that pain from potential predators. Stories are often told about dogs who have some trauma and the people didn't know about it until it had escalated to a serious problem. This is why.

With that in mind, I've seen a lot of trainers and sales people downplay the harm choke chains and prong collars can do by telling people to put it on their arm. The human arm has a lot of muscle and fat, so it is not a true representation. Feel your dog's neck. Just like yours, you can feel the vertebrae, tendons, arteries, and esophagus just like your own neck. There is not a lot of muscle or fat to protect these things like in your arm. If you want a true representation of what these collars feel like to your dog, put it on your own neck.

The other thing to remember is every collar used with domestic animal are full pulling... except dogs. I saw it put this way once: If I push on you, your natural instinct is to push back so I don't knock you over.

My personal belief is collars should only be used as a place to hang tags. If you have a problem puller I recommend two things. First is a head halter. These work like the bridle of horse. Dogs don't have a lot of lateral strength (side to side) so when they start to move ahead they are turned away from where they want to go. These are a great temporary tool for teaching loose leash walking. With these halters, you should never jerk the leash and I recommend fading them as quickly as possible. The down side is some dogs find them uncomfortable. Also, if they are jerked (whether by the fault of the dog or the person) it can cause some damage, so care does need to be taken.

The other option is a body harness. There are several different designs and you just have to find one that works for you. Some connect on the front and use the physics of that lateral strength to keep the dog from pulling. Others connect to the back and "lift" the dog when he starts to pull. The disadvantage front connecting harness is the dogs can get a bit tangled in the leash. With the back connecting harness, the dogs can get a little force against them, more than the halter or front connecting harness, but less than a collar.

With all the pluses and minuses of these options, I think they still far outweigh the damage that can be done with a prong collar, choke collar, or even a regular collar.

http://www.peterdobias.com/community/2009/05/one-jerk-can-cause-a-lot-of-damage/

I have a crazy idea

2011-01-26T10:47:00.002-06:00

A few days ago my wife and daughter came home from the library with a children's book about dogs. So I of course picked it up and flipped through it. The artwork was beautiful, made from different papers cut to shape. So I read a bit of it and was appalled at the content.

I checked the publication date and the book is only three years old. For being such a new book, the information is very outdated and filled with misconceptions that have been disproved long before the book was published.

So, I had a crazy idea. I actually went to college for fine arts and mass media. I spent 20 years as a graphic artist and desktop publisher. So, why not write and illustrate a children's book about dogs myself?

Now I can explain that dogs do not pack like people think wolves do. Although they are very close on the evolutionary timeline, there is some discussion as to whether dogs evolved from wolves, other canidae, or independently. How dogs may have been bred by early man. A wagging tail does not always mean a dog is happy or wants to play. How dogs smile. And a number of other topics explained in a way I hope my 4 year old can understand.

I happen to have some friends of friends who either are or work for publishers, so hopefully that will give me an in and I won't have to self-publish. Guess we'll see how that goes. I'm excited to see how it turns out and will keep everyone updated on the progress.

I've written the outline and first draft and I am picking up some reference material for the art today.

Entrance Anxiety

2011-01-14T14:25:00.000-06:00

So the question was posed: I'd like to see you discuss how to get dogs into your business who might be scared. I'd love to bring my dog by, but I can only get her in if I pick her up and carry her through the door. She won't even go in for pastrami.

There's a lot written about counter conditioning your dog for the vet, which is a nice model, but obviously not quite the same. So, unfortunately I wasn't able to find a good reference, but there is a lot of information out there on counter conditioning and desensitization.

I'll preface this by saying I know the person who posted the question personally and a little bit about her situation, but I'll speak in much broader terms to cover the topic more thoroughly. So, here's my take on it, in an ideal world: The first step is to identify when exactly does the problem start. Do you see signs of anxiety when you first go to the car? Is it when you pull into the parking lot? When you walk up to the door?

Let's say she starts showing signs of anxiety when she gets in the car. How counter conditioning works is to make a good association with something that was bad. By forcing the dog into the car, you run the risk of flooding or learned helpless which I won't get into here but to say that it can lead to worse problems we want to avoid. We're trying to change behavior, not suppress it.

People who read my blog will also know that I am not a fan of positive punishment (leash corrections, hitting, etc.). All we would do in this instance is teach her that every time she gets close to the car she is punished. I won't go any further into that here either, but you should be able to see the down side to that.

So we might start by getting as close to as the dog can tolerate without going past threshold. For example, you can get to within 20 feet. Every time she looks at the car, give her a reinforcer, whether it's a treat, a favorite toy, praise, or whatever. Anything that makes her feel good, and it should be high value. Instead of the usual cookie, use a piece of liver (just a pea sized piece is plenty). It should be something that is only used in training, and not for everyday.

Once she associates the car with good things, move a little close. It may be as little as one step, or as much as 1/2 the distance. Just be sure she stays under threshold (freaking out to the point of ignoring everything else). You may even introduce having another person open the car door. When she looks at the car, treat, then have the person close the door. Eventually work her in this way with the car door left open.

Once she is comfortable working next to the car with the door open, instead of giving her the treat, put it on the door frame so she doesn't have to get in the car, but has to interact with it. Next, put the treat just inside the car, and so on. Something that may also help is opening the door on the opposite side so she can see a way out and doesn't feel trapped. Obviously you'll want to phase this out.

When she is comfortable getting into the car, close the door for literally one second, then open it and let her out. After a few trials of one second, go to two, then three, and so on. Then start the car, let it run for a second, then turn it off, and so on. To make the association stronger, once you can drive her in the car, go to the dog park or a puppy play date, or something really fun.

It's kind of like a recall. A lot of people complain that their dog won't come to them. Well, these people call their dog, the dog comes and they get the leash slapped on them and they go home or the get thrown in the crate or in some way they don't get to continue their play. What I do every time I take my dog out is call him, he comes, I reinforce the come, then let him go back to playing, sniffing or whatever. Only about one in five times do I put the leash on him and go home or make him go inside, or otherwise end the play. Likewise, only about one in five times she gets in the car should you go to the vet or the dog wash, or somewhere that might not be so fun.

Once she has a positive association with the car, you may want to come to the store, park away from the store, like down by the ATM kiosk, and work your way to the store in the same manner you worked your way to the car. If you want to start opening and closing the door to the store though, just let us know so we're not wondering what's going on.

Another option may be to bring the dog into the store and just sit down with her. Give her a few things to do like sit, down, or anything to preoccupy her. Then leave with her. A few days later, come back and do the same thing. If she's calm enough, maybe by the third or fourth time you could put her in a tub. Spend a minute letting her get used to the idea, then out of the tub, another sit or two, then leave. I have to say this would not be my first suggestion depending on the amount of anxiety, because again, we don't want to flood her or put her in a state of learned helplessness. I would really only recommend this in extreme cases (like having been sprayed by a skunk) or very mild cases.

This may seem like a lot of work and very time consuming, and honestly, it could take minutes, or it could take weeks. But it should change the behavior, not suppress it, and in the end, everyone should be happier for it.

One final note: According to Dr. Patricia McConnell in her May 4, 2009 blog (http://www.theotherendoftheleash.com/you-cant-reinforce-fear-dogs-and-thunderstorms), "You can't reinforce fear." In the context she speaks of it, and in this context, I believe she is absolutely correct. So go ahead and comfort your dog when she's stressed, anxious, or fearful. It may not help, but it certainly won't hurt.

The Myth of Dogs as Pack Animals

2010-12-08T13:33:00.000-06:00

It seems to me that I've touched on this topic a few times, but I don't believe I've actually addressed it.

One of the most enduring myths about dogs is that they are pack animals. I believe this stems in part from the misconception that dogs are domestic wolves. I've discussed this a few times, so will only mention a few points. Studies of wolves and dogs, thus far, have only examined the Mitochondrial DNA which can only determine if there is a common ancestor. They are certainly close enough on the evolutionary timeline to crossbreed, but they are also separated by about 12,000 years of evolution or more.

We also need to define exactly what a pack is. Again, I've discussed this, so I will only reiterate a few things. According to research over the past few decades, it has been determined that wolf packs are actually family units with the parents holding the top positions, just like a human family, and the rest of the pack being made up of their offspring. About the time the pups reach maturity, they leave the pack to mate and form their own packs.

In the studies of feral or wild dogs, dogs do not pack. These dogs do form "loose, transitory associations," as Dr. Ian Dunbar calls it, but they usually only last for a few days at most. Dogs do come together in groups during mating season, but the male takes no part in the raising of the pups. Dogs may also come together when resources are scarce, but again, these associations only last for a few days.

Dogs are actually scavengers, frequenting trash heaps of human settlements, or staying in close proximity to humans, looking for handouts. However, this close proximity does not constitute a pack as there is no cooperation between the dogs as a rule.

All that being said, I think it is important to remember that although dogs are not pack animals, they are highly social. It is important that they have interaction with other dogs just as it is important for people to have a social life. I have two dogs myself, and I firmly believe they are better for it. However, in light of the information above, I do not think it would be a good idea to bring a third dog into our home on a permanent basis.

For more information:

Jean Donaldson wrote a great entry on this very topic:
http://www.jeandonaldson.com/jeans-blog-mainmenu-51/64-are-dogs-pack-animals

The book, "Dogs: A New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior, and Evolution" by Coppinger & Coppinger is a great resource. Although I did not agree with all of their conclusions, the raw data is irrefutable.

Also, I've mentioned Dr. David Mech before, who has done research on wolves for decades and admittedly started some of the fallacies, but has since refuted them. http://www.davemech.com/

FREE Spay/Neuter Vouchers Available from Animal Control

2010-12-08T09:41:00.000-06:00

I received the following press release yesterday and wanted to pass it along. I'll reserve my comments on the importance of spaying and neutering for another time.

COLUMBIA- Columbia/Boone County Animal Control officers are offering the gift of responsible pet ownership this holiday season. Beginning immediately, FREE spay/neuter vouchers are available to all Boone County residents.

The vouchers, which can be used to spay or neuter both dogs and cats, can be picked up anytime Monday – Friday from 8 am – 5 pm at the Columbia/Boone County Department of Public Health and Human Services, 1005 West Worley in Columbia. No appointment is needed. Recipients must present a photo ID and proof of Boone County residency (i.e. driver’s license, utility bill, voter ID card, etc.) After a voucher is obtained, the pet owner should call the Central Missouri Humane Society to schedule the spay/neuter procedure.

There are no income restrictions for the vouchers and more than one voucher per household is allowed. Vouchers are available on a first come, first served basis. They must be picked up before December 30, 2010, but the spay/neuter procedure does NOT need to be completed before the end of 2010.

For more information, please contact Animal Control at 573.449.1888.

Reinforcers

2010-11-30T15:25:00.000-06:00

I got an interesting link today from Ian Dunbar's Dog Star Daily page on YouTube. It got me to thinking I hadn't really discussed the topic of food as a reinforcer. This does not contradict what Dr. Dunbar has to say. Truth be told, he is one of my top 3 favorite trainers. My comments should be viewed as a compliment to the information presented in the video.

So, this is my argument: Let's take for example I like to do wood working in my spare time. If you've been to the store, you've seen the bone shaped coffee table my brother and I made. Now, image if every time I picked up a hammer I hit my thumb. Imagine if every time I turned on the table saw I cut off a finger. Image if every time I turned on the router it skipped and took a chunk out of my leg. Not so fun any more, and there's no benefit in it for me.

Now let's take what actually happens: I make a plan, buy the supplies and create something I'm very pleased with. And the next time I make something similar, it comes out better. And possibly someone sees the end product and offers to pay me to make something for them.

So how does this relate to dog training? Whether it's just for the pleasure of accomplishment or payment, you're more inclined to do a job if you get something out of it as opposed to being reprimanded, punished, or hurt every time you try to do something.

Although I agree with what Dr. Dunbar says to a point, I have know some dogs that are not motivated by food, but are motivated by praise, or, in the case of my Brittany, Duncan, a toy. The point is, using a reinforcer such as food, a toy, praise, or whatever, is as much a bribe as my getting satisfaction from making a nice piece of furniture or your getting paid for your job. Let's face it, I wouldn't keep working if I got hurt every time I picked up a new tool any more than you would go to work if you were only reprimanded for every little error.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zULweD95RzQ

X-mas Puppies Again

2010-11-28T13:50:00.001-06:00

This will mostly reiterate some of last year's blogs about getting puppies for X-mas. I did want to emphasize a few points though, then we'll get to the links.

First of all, Mudd Puppies does not sell puppies or recommend breeders. If you want a dog at any time, we strongly urge you to check with one of the local shelters. The main ones I know of in Columbia are The Central Missouri Humane Society, Columbia Second Chance, Happy Tails, and the newest, Precious Paws. Or, if you are looking for a specific breed, the AKC has a comprehensive list of breed specific rescues on their website.

You should also be weary of breeders who will not let you see their facilities, is selling their dogs on the internet or through the newspaper. These may truly be the result accidental breedings, the person may truly be trying to make things convenient for you, but then again, they may be from a puppy mill with questionable health and behavior problems.

Also, keep in mind that just because a dog is registered doesn't mean he's from good breeding. Of course AKC registration is the best known, but there are other registries that are just as good that are not AKC. However, there are some groups who have banded together to create registries that aren't worth the paper their printed on. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the registry if you are looking to get a dog with papers.

I go into a lot more depth in my previous blogs linked below, plus I get into some other topics. If you want to get a puppy for someone for X-mas, be sure you know what you are doing and how it will effect the dog.

http://muddpuppies.blogspot.com/2009/09/puppies-for-sale-at-mudd-puppies.html

http://muddpuppies.blogspot.com/2009/11/puppies-for-x-mas.html

http://muddpuppies.blogspot.com/2009/12/dog-adoptions.html

http://muddpuppies.blogspot.com/2009/12/registered-dogs.html

Infants and Dog Bites

2010-11-12T10:54:00.001-06:00

I debated whether or not to tackle this subject, but it seems important enough to warrant discussion. Recently, a four day old child was mauled to death by the family dog while the mother was taking a shower.

Here's the crux of the issue: No child should EVER be left alone with a dog... EVER!

In a study done by the University of Colorado School of Medicine (link below), the highest number of dog bites - 23% - were by mixed breeds, 13.7% were by Labradors, and 3% were by Golden Retrievers.

Children must be taught how to interact with dogs. A dog cannot speak or write a note. The only way they have to communicate is by the tools they are given. If all the signals that have worked previously don't - growling, leaving, yelping - the situation can and sometimes does escalate to biting. But imagine a four day old, or even a one year old who has had minimal exposure to dogs. Imagine if the child grabs the dog's ear or lip and the dog yelps. The child is then startled and reflexively tightens his grip. The only means of escape in the dog's mind, may be to bite. So who's to blame? The dog? The child? I suggest it is the person responsible for the child at that time, be it the parent, babysitter, or whomever.

This is not to brag, but suggestion on some ways to avoid problems. In the rare instances my wife or I needed to take a shower and were home alone after my daughter was born, we would put a changing mat with bumpers so she couldn't roll off on the floor and shut the door. The dogs had the run of the house, and our daughter was safe and in sight.

When my daughter started coming to the store with me, the first thing I taught her was she could not run up to every dog that walked in and throw her arms around their neck like she did to our dogs at home. Never mind that most dogs just don't like it, but we don't know all the dogs that walk into the store and don't know how they will react to a small child.. Once we got past that, I taught my daughter to ask first if she can pet a dog and how to pet them.

Dogs have had a relationship with humans for at least 12,000 years, and in my opinion, longer. They aren't going away. With just a little effort, we can keep children and dogs safe and they can have a happy, mutually beneficial relationship.

Study:
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2010/11/101109133233.htm

Attack Article:
http://jacksonville.com/news/crime/2010-10-27/story/investigation-continuing-dog-mauling-death-jacksonville-newborn

Dogs and Candy

2010-10-27T10:27:00.002-05:00

I just received the following from the ASPCA: Just a Halloween reminder. Keep Halloween treats away from your dogs. Chocolate can cause vomiting, diarrhea, agitation, high heart rates, tremors and seizures in dogs if enough is ingested. Xylitol, a sugar substitute, can cause low blood sugar and liver failure. Raisins can cause kidney failure. Keep your children and pets safe this holiday season.

I've also heard, in extreme cases, of dogs dieing from too much chocolate. Also, keep in mind, even things that are safe for your dogs, if they are not in their regular diet, can upset their stomach and make cause vomiting.

I posted this a long time ago, but here again is a list of foods your dog should avoid: http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=0+1276&aid=1030

Keep your pets safe this Halloween.

Certificate of Dog Training

2010-10-21T15:16:00.002-05:00

I'm happy to announce that this morning I received my Certificate of Dog Training (Cert.DT) from the Companion Animals Sciences Institute (CASI).

CASI provides science-based, advanced, and challenging, credited courses in training, behavior, and nutrition. CASI is run by James O'Heare, CABC, CDBC, PABC, a respected author, international speaker, Director of The Association of Animal Behavior Professionals, Managing Editor of The Journal of Applied Companion Animal Behavior, and Co-founder of the International Association for Animal Behavior Consultants. He has written 10 books on animal behavior. Behaviorists, trainers, and scientist, including Jean Donaldson, Pat Miller, Chris Bach, Dr. Karen Pryor, Dr. Deb Jones, Beth Duman, Bill and Kellyann Conway, Dr. Jean Dodds, Lorna Coppinger, Janis Bradley, and Nicole Wilde have offered their expertise to the classroom discussions.

So, what does this mean? It means that I now have an intensive, scientific foundation in training, behavior, and technology.

What this does not mean? I am by no means ready to teach a class or take on clients. Although I sometimes dispense general advice, I am not yet qualified to do a professional evaluation or teach a class. That will be my next step.

My long term goal for Mudd Puppies has always been to offer a place where the needs of canine charges can be met in a comfortable, professional setting, whether it be hygiene, behavior, training, mental stimulation, or anything else, short of veterinary care. We're now one big step closer to that goal.

A bit of confusion on Prop B

2010-10-20T10:29:00.000-05:00

Well, I've always reserved the right to change my mind on this issue. I haven't, as yet, but it's become more confusing to me. I'm not too proud to admit that. I've always said that the largest problems with puppy mills in Missouri is that the inspectors are severely understaffed as reported by the 3 State Auditor's reports over the last 10 years.

The Animal Care Facilities Act already covers a lot of the things Proposition B is trying to do. Some things are better, some are not, and some things are just worded differently, but say the same thing.

I think everyone of responsible, reasonable character wants to see an end to the puppy mills in Missouri and I believe the largest problem is the enforcement is severely understaffed. However, I'm not sure, at this point, how I'll vote on November 2. I have a lot more reading to do. I hope anyone reading this will take it upon themselves to take a look at the information and make an informed decision. Below are some links to what I hope will be useful information.

A comparison of Prop B and the Animals Care Facilities Act (done by a group opposed to Proposition B): http://www.box.net/shared/7j22ho66o9

The Current Law: http://www.animallaw.info/statutes/stusmost273_010_405.htm#s327

Proposition B: http://yesonpropb.com/about/read-act

Definitions by the Department of Agriculture: http://www.moga.mo.gov/statutes/c200-299/2730000325.htm

2010 Paws in the Park

2010-09-27T12:46:00.000-05:00

It was quite a weekend. We (Mudd Puppies and About Paws) had a wonderful time at Paws in the Park and enjoyed seeing all the familiar and new faces. Our booth was between The Mud Room and Dogs Deserve Better. Nicer neighbors we could not have asked for. I wish we'd had more time to visit with them, but we were all so busy that it left little time for socializing.

I wanted to give a special thank you to a few people and businesses. First off, Mike and his staff at Instant Imprints did a great job on our banner. Second, Ashley and the staff at Brown Printing in Jefferson City for not only printing our business cards, but the rush job we stuck them with for our brochures. A big thank you also to Kim and her staff at Treats Unleashed for the treats we handed out, swapping printed material with us and all the advice Kim gave us for exhibiting our first time. And thanks to everyone who came out in support of Columbia Second Chance and to everyone who stopped by to visit with us.

I also had a chance to wander around to some of the other booths, although I didn't have time to visit all of them. Some of them are worth mentioning though.

Of course I have to mention Columbia Second Chance. This organization does such a wonderful job helping re-home pets and hosting community events such as Paws in the Park. We at Mudd Puppies are huge advocates of adopting from rescues if you're looking to add a pet to your home.

I also stopped by Big Muddy Dockdogs. If you're not familiar with this sport you should check it out, either as a participant or just as an observer. In the simplest terms, the dog runs down a dock and attempts to jump as far as they can out into the water. There is a fee, but, as I understood it, your first session is free. I'm thinking about taking my Duncan out to try it. A lot of problems with dogs stem not only from lack of physical exercise, but also mental stimulation. A sport for dogs to participate in not only strengthens the bond between dog and person, but gives them that stimulation. Come give it a try or just come to cheer on the participants.

Finally, I wanted to mention one of our neighbors, Dogs Deserve Better. If you've read my other blogs, you know that dogs are social animals and leaving a dog chained or penned outside all the time is cruel and inhumane, not to mention running the risk of pain and suffering due to a collar becoming embedded. Dogs Deserve Better rescues these dogs and places them in homes where they can be part of a loving family.

Some things to note are that dogs are 2.8 times more likely to bite when chained or penned due mainly to lack of socialization. A reported 268 children in the US were killed or seriously injured by chained or penned dogs between October 2003 and August 2009. Currently, over 150 cities and counties and several European countries ban limited tethering. If you know of a dog in this situation, these are the people to contact.

Columbia Second Chance
Treats Unleashed
Big Muddy Dockdogs
Dogs Deserve Better
Instant Imprints
Brown Printing

Fall 2010 Events

2010-09-05T14:07:00.002-05:00

A few things are coming up in the next few months to either raise money for or just to have fun with your dogs. I've added links where available. Some will have more information coming. Here are just a few I've received:

September 13 - Kick Off Campaign Meeting - Cafe' Berlin - 6 - 8 p.m.
Yes on Proposition B is kicking off their campaign with guest speaker Wayne Pacelle, President of the Humane Society of the United States.
http://my.yesonpropb.com/o/17003/p/salsa/event/common/public/v2/index.sjs?event_KEY=634. You may need to log in to view this item.

September 17 - Take a Sip for Second Chance - PS Gallery - 5 to 9 p.m.
Wine tasting with over 50 wines from around the world and hors d'oeuvres from Sycamore restaurant. $30 in advance or $40 at the door.Tickets available now at PS Gallery (812 E Broadway) or Top Ten Wines (111 S. 9th)
Tickets/wine sales greatly benefit Columbia Second Chance animal rescue.

September 18 - Grand Re-opening - Central Missouri Humane Society - 1 to 4 p.m.
Come see the newly renovated facility.
http://www.cmhspets.org/

September 25 - Paws in the Park - Stephens Lake Park
This is to raise money and awareness for Columbia Second Chance. There will also be a number of booths (including Mudd Puppies) and exhibitions. Fun for all the two and four legged family members.
http://offtrackevents.com/pawsinthepark.php

September 30 - Puppy Pawlooza - Cherry Hill Plaza - 5 to 9 p.m.
This is a fun event for dogs, kids, and everyone else in the family.

October 16 - Pup Crawl Bar Tour - Downtown Columbia - 1:30 - 5:00 p.m.

Shipment of books has come in

2010-08-23T12:44:00.002-05:00

I just received a shipment of books from Patricia McConnell Publishing this morning.

"The Puppy Primer" by Patricia McConnell, Ph.D. and Brenda Scidmore is one of our top sellers. It's now in its second edition. From their website: "Perfect for puppy class trainers and self-guided training, too! Engaging, humorous and easy to follow, the updated 'Puppy Primer' is packed with positive reinforcement tips and tricks, special topics and more."

We also have autographed copies of "The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs" and "For the Love of a Dog: Understanding Emotion in You and Your Best Friend"

"The Other End of the Leash" discusses the differences and similarities in the we dogs and people communicate.

"For the Love of a Dog" is about the emotional capacity of dogs and how they are capable of a broader spectrum of emotions than previously thought. This is by far the best book I've ever read, including fiction and non-fiction, and I read a lot.

All of her books are based in science but cover the material in an easy to understand way with anecdotal stories to further explain the theories and concepts. I highly recommend any of books, which is why we carry a large selection of them.

Unrestrained Dogs

2010-08-19T13:43:00.000-05:00

It seems like I may have done a blog entry on this before, but I've gone through everything and can't find it. However, like most things, I think it bares repeating. And in light of the recent study (see link below), it also seemed a timely topic.

Essentially, the conclusion is dogs in the car are an added distraction. Taking your eyes off the road for two seconds doubles the potential for an accident. Not to mention an unrestrained dog can be thrown from the car or escape the car and be hit by another car or be seriously injured by a deploying air bag in the event of an accident.

My wife and I often travel with our dogs, but both have dog seat belts and are not allowed free roam of the car.

The survey and results are available at http://www.aaanewsroom.net/Main/Default.asp?CategoryID=7&ArticleID=789

National Assistance Dog Week

2010-08-10T10:37:00.002-05:00

This week, August 8 - 14, is National Assistance Dog Week. Their goal is to
• Recognize and honor assistance dogs
• Raise awareness and educate the public about assistance dogs
• Honor puppy raisers and trainers
• Recognize heroic deeds performed by assistance dogs in our community

I'd also like to remind everyone that assistance dogs receive 25% off self serve dog washes every day and we are ADA compliant.

For more information on National Assistance Dog Week, visit their website at http://www.assistancedogweek.org/

On the Ballot

2010-08-08T11:51:00.001-05:00

I got an update from Missourians for the Protection of Dogs a few days ago.

"Thanks to your hard work, and the grassroots support of hundreds of volunteers across the state, the Puppy Mill Cruelty Prevention Act has been certified for the November 2, 2010 statewide ballot in Missouri. We are Proposition B on the ballot, and will be urging Missouri citizens to vote YES on Prop B this November!"

I've said this before, but feel it bares repeating as I still hear people making the same unfounded arguments. (Now called) Proposition B only clarifies what is expected of large breeding facilities. This in no way affects any other breeders, particularly meat producers. Even if it did, it only calls for humane treatment and meeting the basic needs of the animals in the breeders' care.

More information available at http://www.missourifordogs.com/

Time Magazine Article

2010-07-30T14:00:00.000-05:00

I've noticed I tend to get on a topic and stick with it for a while. There are some things I'm very passionate about though, and feel they need repeating. Lately it's been the puppy mills, mainly because of the goings-on with Missourians for the Protection of Dogs and their ballot initiative.

But anyone who has read my blogs know that I'm equally passionate about dispelling the Alpha/Dominance Myth. So, when I saw this article linked on Victoria Stillwell's Facebook page, I thought it was worth sharing. Aside from local papers and news reports, I'm not aware of any mainstream media tackling this topic (if you know of anyone, please let me know).

I don't think there's anything new I can say about this topic, so I won't bother to expand on it here. I'll just leave the link for you to read yourself.

http://www.time.com/time/health/article/0,8599,2007250,00.html

Broken Hearts, Mended Souls Rescue

2010-07-26T10:29:00.002-05:00

Broken Hearts, Mended Souls Rescue dropped off some flyers this weekend. On Thursday, July 29, 2010, bring in a flyer (available at Mudd Puppies among other places) and 15% of your purchase at either Shakespeare's Pizza in Columbia will go to the Broken Hearts, Mended Souls Rescue Spay and Neuter Fund. "Everything on the menu counts: any pizza, salad, gift card or drink... take home some frozen pizzas for later."

If you've read my blog, you know I'm a strong advocate against puppy mills. Another piece of that puzzle in controlling the homeless pet over-population is being sure to spay and neuter your dog. I can't advocate this program, and others like it, more strongly. I hope everyone who reads this will participate.

Dogs and Movies

2010-06-17T11:56:00.001-05:00

I have a love/hate relationship with dogs in the media. Many of them obviously speak to me on a personal level. I love dogs enough to end a 20 year career and go into business working with dogs and to go back to school to become a behaviorist and trainer. But when beer commercials with Bull Terriers, movies with Dalmatians or Chihuahuas, and now Great Danes come out, there is an upswing in people buying, adopting, and rescuing dogs of the same breed for no other reason than they were cute on television or in a movie.

The thing to remember about these specific dogs is they have had very intensive training. It is someone's job to get the dog/s to a level where they can perform a specific task or tasks. And now, with computer technology where it is, dogs can do things that aren't even possible.

I'm reminded of an earlier entry which is leading to the same conclusion: I had my Brittany with me at the store one day. Someone asked me if I thought they should get a Brittany too. It all depends on what you're looking for and your lifestyle. Will you have time to exercise a high energy dog? Will you have the money to feed a large dog? Will you be able to mentally stimulate an intelligent dog? Will you be able to regularly groom a hairy dog? Will your children know how to behave around a dog and the dog be tolerant enough of children? The list of questions goes on and on.

It's important to make these evaluations so you and your dog will be happy. After all, you're making a commitment of 8 to 18 years (or more). There are no right or wrong answers, just what suits your needs.

I'll post this link from Animal Planet again. It's by no means the definitive answer to what breed you should get, but a place to start. I would take the top five or so and research them. See if they will fit your lifestyle. I'd also mention again that I love the dogs I have now, but the best dog I ever had was a mutt and a mutt may suit you as well.

http://animal.discovery.com/breedselector/dogselector.do

Toenail Trimming

2010-05-17T12:27:00.001-05:00

Another question I'm often asked is how to trim a dog's toenails.

The biggest thing about clipping is going at it with a sense of confidence. If you clip the nail slowly and tentatively, the slow pressure may hurt and the dog is likely to jerk away and your dog will pick up on your nervousness and possibly get nervous himself. The clip should be done with confidence and quickly.

You should first determine where the quick is. This will come with experience. The quick is the blood and nerve supply in the nail. As the nail grows, so does the quick. When the quick is cut, it does sting, just like when you cut your own quick, which may may put the dog off of nail trimming. It's good to have some styptic powder with a numbing agent in it handy. There is actually a little bump (for lack of a better word) on the underside of the nail which indicates where the quick ends. The quick will recede as the nail is made shorter.

When clipping the nail, a lot of people may the mistake of cutting parallel to the ground. The cut should be made perpendicular to the ground or the nail depending on how long the nail is.

The other option is to use a dremel. There are some of these available on television for about $20, but I've found them to be of poor quality. They tend to bind up easily, wear out quickly and burn through batteries. You'll be much better off spending about $60 on a quality dremel that is going to last you for a while.

The advantage to the dremel is you can remove the nail in layers and actually see the quick before it starts to bleed. Also, most dogs like the dremel better than the clippers.

These are just some of the key points to trimming the nails. I found a number of links online that go more in depth. The first link provided below I chose because the illustrations are some of the best I could find. The second is a great video by Sophia Yin on how to get your dog used to having his nails trimmed. It's an extreme case, but the methodology will work with any degree of aversion to the trimming.

http://www.pet-expo.com/trivia/dogs-nailtrim.htm

http://www.askdryin.com/dog_movies.php?mov=youtube&id=274&act=play

Dog Bite Prevention Week

2010-05-17T10:47:00.000-05:00

Anyone who has talked to me about dogs knows that I think the most important thing about dogs is to get them training. I have very strong opinions about what are the best and worst methods, but that's a topic for other blogs.

The second most important thing, which goes hand-in-hand with training, is reading a dog's body language. I would go so far as to say this is something that should be taught in school. As a result, I'd be willing to bet that dog bites could be greatly reduced.

This week is Dog Bite Prevention Week. The first link is for printable files on bite prevention. The second link is a seminar given by Jean Donaldson, behaviorist, and author.

http://www.doggonesafe.com/free_downloads

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VmWizZueFQ

Washing the face

2010-05-10T14:15:00.001-05:00

Another question I often is get is how to wash a dog's face or head. The thing to remember is, just like people, dogs don't like water being sprayed in their face, so you want to use a different technique.

If there's no real dirt or odor, and it's just a general bath, you can take a rag (or you're welcome to use an extra towel here at the store), get it wet, and without ringing it out, just thoroughly wipe down the dogs face.

If the dog's face is dirty, wet the face as about, then ring out the rag, put a little bit of soap on the rag and rub it in until it lathers up. Repeat this until the face is clean. Then take the rag and wet it again and without ringing out the rag, wipe off the shampoo. Continue until all the shampoo is gone.

The important thing to remember is you don't want to get shampoo in the dog's eyes or ears, and some dogs find water in the eyes annoying as well. Although our regular shampoo is pretty mild, it does sting when it gets in the eyes, and I know from personal experience.

Unfortunetly I wasn't able to quickly find a link with more information on this topic, but I got my information from groomers, vets, and a trainer I've talked to. I'm sure the information is out there if you have the time to look for it.

HJR 86 and Missourians for the Protection of Dogs

2010-05-05T11:33:00.000-05:00

I received a letter for Missourians for the Protection of Dogs. It was a "Good News, Bad News" letter.

To paraphrase and add my own comments:
The good news is that more than enough signatures were collected to get on the ballot. Thanks to everyone who signed the petition and especially those who collected them. It is truly awe-inspiring that so much could be accomplished in such a short time.

The bad news is House Joint Resolution (H.J.R.) 86 has been proposed. On the surface this doesn't seem too bad, but what this does is take away the right to vote on the ballot initiative and undermines the ability to petition our state government on this issue.

I urge everyone to familiarize themselves with HJR 86 and the proposed statute, and to act as you see fit. To me, this is now not only an issue for protecting breeding dogs in the state of Missouri, but protecting our constitutional right to petition our government. Links have been provided below to HJR 86, the proposed statute, how to contact your senator, and more information from Missourians for the Protection of Dogs.

HJR 86: http://www.house.mo.gov/billtracking/bills101/biltxt/intro/HJR0086I.htm
The proposed statute: http://www.sos.mo.gov/elections/2010petitions/2010-085.asp
To contact your Senator: http://action.humanesociety.org/site/PageServer?pagename=electedOfficials
Missourians for the Protection of Dogs: http://www.missourifordogs.com/

Last chance to help

2010-04-23T13:09:00.000-05:00

I got this from Missourians for the Protection of Dogs:

"There are only A FEW MORE DAYS left to help Missouri's dogs! We are in the final week, and the dogs are counting on you in this last push for signatures! THESE LAST FEW DAYS ARE CRITICAL AND THE DOGS NEED YOU NOW - this is our last chance to help them by putting this measure on the ballot!"

I would remind everyone that this only affects breeding facilities of 50 or more dogs. No other livestock or animals are included.

If you live in Missouri and haven't signed already, or know someone in Missouri, now is the time. Here in Columbia, you can sign at their booth at the Earth Day festivities on April 25th.

The proposed act is at http://www.sos.mo.gov/elections/2010petitions/2010-085.asp

Ear Care

2010-04-17T17:21:00.001-05:00

I've said before, my interest in dogs is primarily behavior. If you've read my other entries, you've probably noticed that. However, as I am running a self-serve dog wash, I thought an entry on grooming was well past due.

I'll start with the ears, because that seems to be the most unfamiliar area.

A dog's ear canal, unlike a person's that just goes straight in, is shaped like an "L" or a check. It goes down and in. It is much more difficult to get water or other foreign matter out. This accounts for the excessive head shaking when water gets in the ear. The advantage is that you can clean the ear without fear of damaging the ear drum. Of course you still want to be careful not to damage the skin inside the ear canal.

If you don't care to do the cleaning, your vet or a groomer will clean the dog's ear for you.

For more information about ear cleaning and a good diagram of the dog's ear, visit http://www.dog-health-handbook.com/cleaning-dog-ears.html

Ken McCort on Canids

2010-04-17T15:25:00.001-05:00

First, I have to thank Leonard Cecil for sending this to me. He collects and disseminates more information than I would probably have heard about if I didn't know him.

I had to give a lot of thought on how I wanted to introduce this. I think I'll start as basic as possible. One of the most popular misconceptions out there is that dogs are domestic wolves. To me, that is akin to saying people are chimpanzees (or bonobos, to be more precise): there is a common ancestor, but we're different.

Are there things we can learn about our behavior from bonobos? Certainly, but I wouldn't try to define human behavior solely by observing bonobos. Likewise, there are things that can be learned about dogs by observing wolves, but there are marked differences that need to be addressed as well.

Something that needs clarification is the pack. Okay, wolves are pack animals, but what does that actually mean? It may be easier to explain what it doesn't mean. It does not mean that a group of wolves are together, each plotting a way to become "top dog." Packs are actually family units with the mother and father at the head and their children making up the rest of the group. When they become old enough, the children move off to create their own families. Even David Mech, who popularized the term "Alpha" has reversed his position on this in light of more studies he has done and a better understanding of the dynamics of wolf behavior. (There are too many studies to list here, but look him up.)

Dogs, on the other hand, are not pack animals. In studies done of wild dogs (or village dogs, as they are more commonly known now), they are observed to be lone scavengers sometimes forming brief, loose associations with other dogs, but for the most part they are loners. So interacting with a dog like a wolf, or as wolves are wrongly perceived to interact, is counterproductive at best, just like interacting with a person as a bonobo would be. Dogs: A Startling New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior & Evolution by Coppinger & Coppinger is one of the best, and most easily accessible books on the topic.

Ken McCort speaks on this topic in a radio blog interview. It's only about 40 minutes, but filled with a lot of excellent information.

http://www.blogtalkradio.com/regardingrover/2009/11/03/regarding-rover--ken-mccort-on-canids

Dog Park Etiquette

2010-04-08T17:57:00.003-05:00

I just finished writing this, and saw AHA has posed the question of what people think is proper. The way I see it, now you have two resources to draw from.

Now that the weather is really changing, the dog parks are hopping. I thought it would be a good timely topic. In essence, you should be sure your dog is healthy (up to date on shots, etc.), happy (plays well with other and is not intimidated or anxious around other dogs), and remember the park is for everyone (just because you don't mind doesn't mean someone else doesn't mind).

My best example is one of our dogs. He was abused before we got him and as a result he tends to be very anxious, is fearful of and barks at people. For whatever reason, he loves the dog park and doesn't bark at people while we're there... to a point. While we have him there, we stay close to him and are hyper-aware of any cues that he may be getting stressed or reaching his threshold, or the other visitors are reaching theirs. Before that point, we leash him and keep him away from other people and, if necessary, dogs. If he doesn't calm down some, we just cut our trip to the park short. (I should mention that he has never bitten anyone or we wouldn't bring him to the park at all.) We do our best to infringe on our dogs, ourselves, and the other visitors to the park having the best possible time.

The Whole Dog Journal has a good article on the subject that's a bit more in depth.
http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/sample/a_bark_in_the_park.html

"The D Word"

2010-04-05T12:21:00.001-05:00

Dr. Patricia McConnell recently wrote a great blog entry about what dominance is and what it isn't. Worth checking out.

http://www.theotherendoftheleash.com/the-concept-formerly-described-as-dominance/

Another Mark Your Calendar

2010-04-02T13:28:00.000-05:00

Columbia Second Chance is having an open house at their new location on April 10.

"Come see our beautiful new place and our progress on the Kitty Kondo construction. Lots of cool events this day:

12-2pm hot dogs, chips, & drink served
1pm Ribbon Cutting Ceremony
12:30-2pm BUDWEISER CLYDESDALE!
MoKan Dock Diving Dogs demonstrations
plus adoptable animals, tours, and more!"

Visit their website for more information and directions.

Signature gathering events

2010-03-30T14:59:00.000-05:00

There are two signature gathering events coming up for the Missourians for the Protection of Dogs. If you haven't already, I would encourage you to sign the petition at one of these locations.

One of the events takes place on April 6, beginning at 7:00 p.m. at the Underground Club Cafe.

The other takes place during the weekend of April 24 at the Earth Day Festival downtown.

Visit http://www.missourifordogs.com for more information on these events and events around the state.

And while on the subject, I've heard a lot of the arguments and discussions in opposition to the proposed statute. What it seems that most people don't understand, is that this only effects breeders of dogs with 50 dogs or more. To read the proposed statute, visit http://www.sos.mo.gov/elections/2010petitions/2010-085.asp.

Dogs and Cars

2010-03-29T15:28:00.001-05:00

As we get into the season of spring breaks and summer is just around the corner, it seemed a good time to mention some things to be aware of when your dog is in the car, with or without you.

First of all, dogs love to stick their heads out the window when traveling. The bouquet of scents must be extacy to a dog. However, some dogs are able to squeeze through the smallest of cracks. Also, the possibility of being hit by debris at 70 miles an hour could cause serious damage to the eye, ear, nose, or any exposed area. I've also heard (although I've not seen much to substantiate it) that the wind can dry out the sinuses and thereby cause respiratory problems.

I'm also an advocate of restricting the movement of dogs in the car. They should be in an appropriate sized kennel, behind a gate, or wearing a seat belt (**shameless plug** all of which we carry or can order). Not only can a dog be a distraction while you're driving, but they can also be severely injured if you happen to be in an accident. Something else to remember is if the dog is ejected from the car, because of the amount of anxiety and/or shock, the dog not only runs the risk of being hit by another car, but can be difficult to catch. I've heard of at least one incident where a dog was shot because he had become so aggressive while rescue workers were trying to extricate the driver and passengers.

And of course, a dog should never be left alone in a car. Even on mild days, the temperature in a car can rise to 120 degrees within mere minutes, even with a cracked window. Even leaving the car running and air conditioner on may not be a good idea. I've heard of (unconfirmed) instances where dogs have died from carbon monoxide poisoning. Why risk it? If your dog can't come in with you, it's better just to leave him at home than to risk heat stroke or the death. Not to mention thousands of dogs are stolen from cars every year.

The guys at Car Talk have put together a pretty good little article with links to more information at http://www.cartalk.com/content/features/fido/dog-safe.html.

Mark your calendar

2010-03-28T14:13:00.000-05:00

There are a couple of events coming up in the next few weeks.

April 8: Dining Out for Animals at participating locations. Lunch from 11 - 1 and Dinner form 5 - 10. Visit the Central Missouri Humane Society's website for more information.

May 8: Movie Night, presenting E.T. There will be live music, a silent auuction, and snacks. Doors open at the Missouri Theatre Center for the Arts at 5:30. The movie starts at 7:00. Visit Columbia Second Chance's website or The Missouri Theatre's website for more information.

Positively Victoria

2010-03-23T12:10:00.000-05:00

Victoria Stillwell has started a new website about positive training. She has brought together some of the best trainers in the business to share their insight on training that is founded in science and a true understanding of the psychology of dogs and they way they learn.

The website is at http://positively.com
There is an excellent article here on the myths of positive reinforcement: http://positively.com/2010/03/22/fact-vs-fiction-part-i/

Nail Trimming

2010-03-20T12:25:00.002-05:00

We now offer nail trimming 7 days a week for only $10. No appointment necessary, just come by during regular hours.

The Origin of Dogs All Over Again

2010-03-18T13:44:00.002-05:00

I won't get into the specifics, and I am by no means a scientist, and was by no means part of the research team, but my personal belief is that domestication happened in relatively short period of time in many different locations. Humans, or what would become humans, were marauders until around 10,000 years ago - give or take a few thousands years - and it's my belief there was a trading of ideas and genetics when two or more of these groups met. The following article has a lot of supposition and according to one person, they neglected to sample some areas of Eastern Asia.

All that said, this is a fascinating article and sheds some new light on the whole topic.
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/03/18/science/18dogs.html?hpw

Delayed Opening March 13

2010-03-06T15:01:00.000-06:00

We will be opening at 1:00 on Saturday, March 13 in order to participate in the Mid-Missouri Chapter of the American Red Cross Pet First Aid class.

New World Record

2010-02-26T13:48:00.002-06:00

A friend of mine posted this earlier today. I just found it interesting. I'm thinking I may have to take out my tape measure for some of the Great Danes that come into the store. There's one in particular that might give George some competition.

http://www.pawnation.com/2010/02/23/giant-george-the-great-dane-is-newly-crowned-worlds-tallest-d/

Positive Punishment

2010-02-14T15:34:00.000-06:00

I got in a discussion yesterday with someone about positive punishment. As a result, I thought it warranted an entry. The terminology can be counter-intuitive, so I'll try to clarify.

So, to start with the basics, reinforcement is anything that increases the likelihood of a behavior and punishment is anything that decreases the likelihood of a behavior. For example, upon seeing a treat, a dog may sit and start to salivate. Sitting is the behavior, salivating is an unconditioned response (which we won't get into here). The main point here is that punishment is not always bad and reinforcement is not always good.

Now, the confusing part. In the context of behavior, positive does not mean good, and negative does not mean bad. The way I originally remembered the difference was positive is often represented as a plus sign (+), as in positive reinforcement, represented as +R or R+. The plus sign mean to add, so something is added. The inverse is also true for negative when something is subtracted or taken away (-R or R-).

So, in terms of positive punishment, something is added to decrease a certain behavior. This includes things like hitting, shocks, leash corrections, and many things that are usually referred to as aversives. Something has been added to change the behavior. I won't go into detail here about the problems and fallout of using positive punishment. I've discussed that in other entries and I'm sure it will come up again. Suffice it to say it has been scientifically proven there are much more effective ways to change behavior using negative punishment (taking away the shoe your dog is not supposed to chew on) and positive reinforcement (giving him an appropriate chew toy).

This is a VERY broad overview and barely touches on the subject in the simplest terms, but I hope it's a good starting point and clears up the topic a little. For more information, view some of the other entries, or look at some of Patricia McConnell's or Karen Pryor's books for a start.

The Mid-Missouri Chapter of the American Red Cross is offering a Pet First Aid class

2010-02-12T10:38:00.002-06:00

"The goal of the Cat and Dog First Aid presentation is to teach participants how to be prepared for emergencies that involve a cat or a dog and how to protect themselves and the animal from further harm, injury or suffering during emergencies by teaching prompt, effective first aid actions and care."

Class is held on March 13, from 8:00 am to 12:00 Noon. Cost is $39. You can register through the Columbia Career Center.

More information at http://redcross-midmo.org/healthandsafety/Pet.htm
And registration at https://secure.career-center.org

What CAN be done.

2010-01-15T14:10:00.000-06:00

Dr. Spophia Yin is another excellent trainer who is out there. I'm particularly impressed with the information she has on "Sophia's Approach to Modifying Behavior of Dogs and Other Animals."

As I've stated before, there seems to be a lot of information about what NOT to do, but not so much (at least not as accessible, in my opinion) about what you should do... or more appropriately, outdated methods vs. methods based on science.

The other thing I really like about her site is the number of videos she has on how to apply a positive reinforcement technique in everyday situations, among other things.

I hope this will be helpful to some people and their dogs.

Sophia's Approach to Modifying Behavior of Dogs and Other Animals
http://www.askdryin.com/sophia.php

Dog Movies
http://www.askdryin.com/dog_movies.php

Missourians for the Protection of Dogs

2010-01-06T12:59:00.003-06:00

As I've mentioned before (click here), Missouri leads the country in the number of puppy mills. There is an initiative to get something on the November ballot to change that. I hope everyone will participate.

Missourians for the Protection of Dogs is spearheading a new, citizen-backed ballot initiative that will improve the lives of dogs in commercial breeding operations in Missouri.
Columbia Campaign Kickoff:
Columbia Public Library (Daniel Boone)
100 West Broadway
January 13 from 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Visit http://www.missourifordogs.com for more information.

Happy Holidays

2010-01-04T12:53:00.000-06:00

Just something a little fun to say "Happy Holidays."

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUtPKbMwnRo&NR=1

Holiday Hours

2009-12-14T11:21:00.000-06:00

Mudd Puppies will be closed December 24, 25, 31, and January 1.
Our holiday hours from December 26 - January 2 will be 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Sundays 12:00 Noon - 5:00 p.m. We will resume regular business hours on January 3.

First the Website, Now the Blog

2009-12-12T18:29:00.000-06:00

I wanted to put this entry from the Tripod blog here for anyone who might be confused by the new address and appearance.

I've just finished moving the blog to a new host. There are a few reasons for doing this, but from the user's end (you the reader) the indexing is more comprehensive if you are looking for a specific entry. This will also allow me to reference a specific entry as opposed to sending you to "THE BLOG" and leaving it to you to find the entry. It also gives me a lot more freedom in design so it just looks nicer. I will leave the tripod blog posted for a time for people who may have linked directly to that page.

I've deleted the entries on recalls because most of them are outdated, as well as events in Columbia that have already passed. Rest assured I will continue to post new information as it becomes available.

I hope you like the changes and are able to access the information available much easier.

Training Tips

2009-12-12T17:12:00.001-06:00

I've covered a lot of information about flawed training and behavior theories and thought I should probably cover some information about what you should do.

I've mentioned several trainers that I admire, but my favorite is Dr. Patricia McConnell. It's been said that Ian Dunbar is the father of non-aversive training and Karen Pryor is the mother. I would say that Patricia McConnell is the daughter, taking the best of both and combining it with her own experience and knowledge. Allow me to talk a little about her first.

Dr. Patricia McConnell is a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist and received her Ph.D. in zoology at the University of Wisconsin, "researching dog behavior and communication between professional trainers and working domestic animals." She received the Allee Award from the Animal Behavior Society for her dissertation. Until recently Dr. McConnell also ran Dogs Best Friend Training, LLC. She was the co-host for Pet Line on Animal Planet and for 14 years she was the co-host for Calling All Pets on Wisconsin Public Radio.

Dr. McConnell is constantly giving seminars and is a well published author. Although I've loved everything I've read by her, her book, "For the Love of a Dog: Understanding Emotion in You and Your Dog" is the best book I have ever read, bar none.

I can only hope to achieve her understanding of behavior and training capability one day, which is what I aspire to.

That said, her website has some great training tips. All of these tips I'm linking to here reference books or booklets by Dr. McConnell, but most of them are available for less than $10 and some for about $5. Well worth the investment. (And a little self-promotion, we carry most of her booklets at Mudd Puppies). I could ramble on further about the page, but I think it pretty well speaks for itself.

http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/top-ten-training-tips.html

Registered Dogs

2009-12-07T17:09:00.001-06:00

I wanted to mention one more aspect of adopting a puppy for X-mas (or any time): the registration.

Of course, the most well known registration a dog can have is from the American Kennel Club (AKC). Because of the AKC standards, it's very easy to talk to the breeder, the breeder of the parent dogs, etc. This allows you to get information about temperaments, health issues, and any other concerns you have or information you may want.

This is not to say that a dog has to have AKC registration to be a good dog. Some breeds, such as Catahoula Leopard Dogs are not members of the AKC but are very organized and have an excellent registry. Point being there are other registries out there that are reputable, but you should educate yourself about them instead of getting a dog solely because he has an alphabet soup after his name.

As a result of not being able to register their dogs, pet stores, puppy mills, and families have gotten together to form registries, some cleverly naming them to have the same acronym as reputable registries. Beware of people asking for money up front, people wanting to ship a dog to you, and people who will not allow you to see their facilities, usually suggesting you meet somewhere to pick up the puppy. See my post about puppy mills for more information titled "Puppies for Sale at Mudd Puppies."

"Leilah's Mom" wrote an excellent article about things to be aware of if you are looking for a registered puppy. The AKC also sent me an article full of good information. I hope you'll take a look before you get a "registered" puppy. (Links are at the bottom of this entry.)

I feel I should also mention here that although I love the dogs I have now, the best dog I ever had was a mutt. But dogs are like people in that just because they have an excellent pedigree does not mean they may not have problems. Likewise, because they are a mutt doesn't mean they will have all the best or worst traits of their breeds.

If you're wanting a specific breed, I strongly urge you to educate yourself. And, if you're just wanting a companion, I again recommend checking at your local shelter or looking into a breed specific rescue organization.

http://www.wonderpuppy.net/kc.htm
http://www.akc.org/news/index.cfm?article_id=3220

Dog Adoptions

2009-12-01T17:09:00.000-06:00

I wanted to do something a little more positive and something reminded me of this the other day. Plus with the holidays coming and the potential for giving pets as gifts, I thought I'd revisit the topic of pet adoptions. The last discussion was geared more towards avoiding puppy mills, but this time I wanted to give some other options.

I used to volunteer for the American Brittany Rescue (ABR) until I opened the store and plan to get back to that when my schedule allows. Most, if not all rescue organizations have a screening process in place to make sure the dog is in good health, up to date on thier shots, and the potential owners can meet the dogs needs. Most can transport the dog to your location, one of the things I used to do with the ABR and we would transport for other oganizations as well. A large majority of the dogs, at least most of the ones I worked with, had nothing wrong with them, it was just that their owners were unable to care for them forvarious reasons, ie, moving, too many dogs, etc. A few did have medical conditions that did require treatment.

If you're thinking of giving a dog for X-mas or are looking for a dog for yourself, or if you'd like to help (organizations are always looking for foster homes and other volunteer help) I hope you'll consider checking with your local shelter or one of these rescue organizations.

The American Kennel Club has a very comprehensive list of breed specific rescue organizations at http://www.akc.org/breeds/rescue.cfm.

Loss and Mourning

2009-11-28T17:05:00.000-06:00

A good friend of mine dropped by the store on his way home to tell me he had to euthanize his companion of over 10 years. I was reminded of when I had to have Talbot euthanized. It was the best thing I could have done for him, but that didn't make it any easier. The same was true for Joe: an undiagnosed problem made it the most humane course of action.

I've been thinking for a while about doing an entry discussing the comment that "it's just a dog." Yes, they are just dogs, but what does that actually mean? Dogs are not automatons that are totally motivated by self-preservation and species-preservation with no thoughts or feelings, but they are not furry little children either. But I don't have all my thoughts collected right now, so it will have to come later.

Right now, I'm just going to mourn the loss of Joe, Talbot, Josette, Henry, Max, Malikai, Smoke, and all the other dogs that have touched my life.

http://www.theotherendoftheleash.com/category/death-of-a-pet/

Dominance in domestic dogs - useful construct or bad habit

2009-11-21T17:02:00.000-06:00

Dominance in domestic dogs - useful construct or bad habit

I'm starting to feel like I'm on a crusade against dominance theory and the "alpha dog" misconception. However, I believe it has permeated people's thinking to the point that it bares repeating.

I was surprised I hadn't mentioned this study, published last May in The Journal of Veterinary Behavior, but such is my schedule. The paper argues and research shows that dominance is not a motivating factor, but an aspect of the relationship between two individuals.

The first link is to the website and page where a copy of the paper is available. The second link is to the actual study.

http://www.pawsoflife.org/K9trainlib.html
http://www.pawsoflife.org/pdf/Library%20articles/Bradshaw%202009.pdf

Training Techniques

2009-11-20T16:59:00.000-06:00

There are two links at the bottom of this entry to a couple of articles written by Lisa Mullinax, CPDT. Although they are personal opinion, I believe her to be very rational, insightful, and her opinions backed up by experience and research.

I'm not one that usually comes out against a particular person and I can usually find and try to say something nice about everyone. I do believe the techniques Mullinax is arguing against need close scrutiny and pet owners should find more resources than a popular tv show to train their dog/s, particularly when so many experienced trainers and organizations have come out against those techniques.

The second article is in response to comments made about the first article. They are comments I constantly see on boards which Millinax does an excellent job of countering, explaining, and dispelling.

I don't want to be a person that just says "Don't do that" or "You're doing it wrong." So again, I'll mention a few of my favorite trainers/behaviorists to go along with the suggestions by Mullinax: Ian Dunbar, Patricia McConnell, Victoria Stillwell, Karen Pryor, Sarah Kalnajs. All of these trainers are published writers (Mudd Puppies carries some of their books), and their websites can be found on my dog links page.

Finally, the links to the articles:
http://www.4pawsu.com/dogpsychology.htm
http://www.4pawsu.com/cesarfans.htm

Puppies for X-mas

2009-11-06T16:58:00.000-06:00

Dogs go through several changes in the first few months of life known as sensitive periods. The stimuli they are exposed to during these times can have a lasting effect on a dog and should be considered when bringing a new puppy into the home. I want to speak a little on what is known as the "fear" period because it coincides with the 8 week time period puppies are usually adopted.

During this sensitive period the puppies will form attachments to places, people, and other animals. It is necessary that the puppies have contact with other dogs during this period so socialization can occur with their own species. Puppies exposed to other stimuli, including other species and places, between the fifth and ninth week have the fewest problems later in life relating to those species or similar situations. It is imperative that herding and guarding puppies be exposed to the animals they will be interacting with later in life for proper socialization to occur with the livestock. As little as 20 minutes of interaction a day between the fourth and twelfth may be all that is necessary for this inter-species socialization to occur and has been shown to be the optimal period for dogs to become socialized to humans. However, the more concentrated the interaction, the better the effect.

Stimulation, or lack thereof, at this point will have a very strong influence on later behavior which can be difficult, if not impossible to change or modify later. During this period, aversive stimuli can have a lasting effect.

Because X-mas is such an excitable time, a new puppy can become withdrawn or fearful. However, to socialize a new puppy with their new family, it is a good idea to have a few days off to spend time with him.

If you want to give a puppy as a gift, I suggest giving the recipient a leash and collar as a gift, or perhaps a card with something written on it to the effect of "valid for one new puppy." Then, perhaps the rest of the day can be spent placing the dog bed, kennel, dishes etc. After X-mas, when things have settled down a little, the new puppy can be picked up. As most people get the week between X-mas and New Year off, this is an ideal bonding time as well.

For more information on sensitive periods in dogs, see:

Canine Behavior: A Guide for Veterinarians (1999) by Bonnie Beaver

How Dogs Think: Understanding the Canine Mind (2004) by Stanely Coren

The Art of Raising a Puppy (1991) by The Monks of New Skete

The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behaviour and Interactions with People (2007) by James Serpell

Puppies for Sale at Mudd Puppies

2009-09-24T16:55:00.000-05:00

I've been receiving a lot of calls lately from people asking if we had certain breeds of dogs for sale. It is our policy to never sell, advertise or endorse any breeder or the sale of any dog. This may seem a bit extreme, but there is good reason for it. Missouri leads the country in the number of puppy mills. Because it is impossible for us to check every "breeder," we have just made a blanket policy.

For anyone who still doesn't know, a puppy mill (in simplest terms) is a breeder who breeds solely for profit with no concern for the health or well being of the dogs.

What we suggest and recommend is checking with your local shelter. Here in Columbia, there is the Central Missouri Humane Society, Columbia Second Chance, and Happy Tails. If you are looking for a specific breed, there are breed specific rescue organizations, such as the American Brittany Rescue where I got my Brittany. There are links on our links page to all of these organizations. If you are looking for one of the rescues, a quick Google search will bring up what you need.

For more information on Puppy Mills check these links:
http://www.puppymillrescue.com/what_is_a_puppy_mill.htm
http://www.maal.org/Puppy-Mills.asp
http://www.prisonersofgreed.org/

Dominance Theory

2009-08-23T16:53:00.000-05:00

There is a lot of information and television programs that tout the merits of being the "pack leader" or "alpha dog." At best, this method is misunderstood and poorly defined by the media and proponents of this method.

The theory itself has been loosing favor in the pet training field for several years. The most highly respected trainers (by their peers) use non-aversive training techniques. These include Ian Dunbar, Patricia McConnell, and Karen Pryor. All are published writers and well worth checking into.

More info on the topic can found at:
http://www.clickertraining.com/node/2297
http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/dominance%20statement.pdf

I think this bares repeating

2009-08-02T16:49:00.000-05:00

I wanted to revisit the subject of different types of collars. As reasearch and articles have been written by people much more informed than I, I'll just leave a few links to their research. I will say that as long as I own Mudd Puppies, we will never carry or sell any aversive training collars and will always recommend flat collars as "a place to hang their tags."

There's a lot more information out there, but the research done since 1980 (the first study I'm aware of) all point to the same thing.

http://www.dogremedies.com/dangers_choke_pinch_shock.html

http://www.helpinganimals.com/animalsHome_dogs_collar.asp

Humane Society Files Class Aciton Lawsuit Against Petland

2009-03-18T16:46:00.000-05:00

Because Missouri leads the country in the number of puppy mills, I thought this relevant.

Some thoughts on the matter include:

If the "breeder" won't let you see their facilities, it's probably a mill.

Any dog can have papers if the parents are known, this does not mean they are papers from the AKC or the dog has been properly bred. Some organizations have reportedly been formed to give dogs papers even though they are of questionable breeding. A good guideline is to look for AKC paperwork and possibly the denotation of champion for one or both parents.

NEVER buy dog from a pet store as they are almost guaranteed to be from a mill.

There are a number of rescue centers (like the humane society) and breed specific rescue organizations (like the American Brittany Rescue) which test for temperament, sociability, etc. which would be a much better choice. You may not get a show quality dog, but you'll get a great companion.

There is a wealth of knowledge on the internet or at your local Humane Society about puppy mills and how to avoid them. More information about the suit can be found at

http://www.hsus.org/press_and_publications/press_releases/petland_litigation_sm_031709.html

Dangers of Choke Collars

2009-01-25T16:45:00.000-06:00

I recently came across a study on choke chains done in 1992. The findings concluded that choke collars can damage the cervical sympathetic nerve, the neck and back vertebrae, and cause foreleg paralysis among other things.

I personally believe collars should only be used as a place to hang a dog's tags. And with all the accessories available today that work on principles other than brute force, there's really no valid reason to use a choke collar.

I am a strong advocate of head collars and harnesses (perhaps that's another blog) although you should talk with a certified trainer before attempting to train with either.

For more information on the study, search for 1992, Sweden, and Hallgreen.

Pedigree Dogs Exposed

2008-11-19T16:43:00.000-06:00

I'd rather not make a comment about this other than to say I think everyone who cares about dogs should watch it.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=44215931

World's first dog

2008-11-01T16:40:00.000-05:00

I think the title of this article is a little presumptuous, but it does have some fascinating information.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/27240370/

Dog Drinking

2008-08-31T16:39:00.001-05:00

This is one of those things most people don't realize, but I've always found fascinating. Watch your dog a little closer next time he takes a drink and you can see it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63Ch2pNkZwU

The Origin of the Dog Revisited

2008-07-30T16:35:00.001-05:00

This is a fascinating paper written by Janice Koler-Matznick on some less familiar theories of the origin of the dog.

"The most widely accepted hypothesis of the origin of the dog, Canis familiaris, is that the dog is a domesticated gray wolf, Canis lupus. This paper reviews the evidence for this conclusion, finds many unanswered questions and conceptual gaps in the wolf origin hypothesis, and explores the alternative hypothesis that the most likely ancestor of the domestic dog was a medium-size, generalist canid."

For the complete paper, visit http://newguinea-singing-dog-conservation.org/Tidbits/OriginOfTheDog.pdf
You'll need a copy of Adobe Acrobat to view the paper.

Books

2008-06-24T16:34:00.000-05:00

I haven't had a lot of free time to make any blog entries lately, so I thought I'd just mention a few books I've found very helpful. There are a lot of good books out there, but these are some of my favorites:

For the Love of a Dog by Patricia McConnell
The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell
How to be Your Dog's Best Friend by The Monks of New Skete
The Art of Raising a Puppy by The Monks of New Skete
The Hidden Life of Dogs by Elizabeth Marshall Thomas
The Intelligence of Dogs by Stanley Coren

Foods to Avoid

2008-06-03T16:31:00.000-05:00

Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.

Q: Which foods could be dangerous for my dog?

A: Some foods which are edible for humans, and even other species of animals, can pose hazards for dogs because of their different metabolism. Some may cause only mild digestive upsets, whereas, others can cause severe illness, and even death. The following common food items should not be fed (intentionally or unintentionally) to dogs. This list is, of course, incomplete because we can not possibly list everything your dog should not eat.

For the complete list, visit http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=0+1276&aid=1030.

Radio Interview

2008-05-29T16:30:00.000-05:00

I was interviewed this morning for "The Woman's Show" on KFRU. The program will air this Saturday at 6:00 am and again on Sunday. They told me 7:00 pm, but the website says 6:00 pm, so I'm not quite sure.

Either way, check it out this weekend on KFRU, AM 1400

Choosing a breed

2008-05-26T16:28:00.003-05:00

I had my Brittany in the store the other day and someone asked if I thought they should get a Brittany. I told her that a Brittany was not for everyone and it was important that you find out about a breed in comparison with your lifestyle and needs.

The Animal Planet website has a great survey that recommends a breed or breeds after you answer 10 questions. I would not run out and buy or adopt what this survey recommends right off the bat, but it's a good place to start your research.

Personally, according to the survey, I should have a Curly-Coated Retriever or a Spinone Italiano. Brittanies have a low 90% compatibility for me, but I can't imagine having another breed.

Visit Animal Planet and try it out.

2008-05-20T16:22:00.000-05:00

Dog Postures

This is something I wrote for my personal site several years ago and I think it is probably the most important information I have to share. This information was based on information in "The Intelligence of Dogs" by Stanley Coren. Re-reading it now, I notice that some of the terminology is inaccurate and flawed. However, I'll leave it for now and hopefully get it re-written in the near future.

As a general rule there are 7 postures that can tell a person how a dog is feeling:

1. The Play Posture.
This is characterized by the dogs front end being down and his back side being up. The tail is erect and most likely waging. The ears will likewise be erect and the dogs mouth may be open with his tongue exposed.

2. Relaxed Posture
This is indicated by the ears up and relaxed (not forward) and the tail down and relaxed. The mouth may again be slightly opened with the tongue exposed.

3. Alert Posture
This is seen in the ears being up and forward, the mouth being closed and the tail being held straight out but not bristled. The legs are tense and the dog leans slightly forward. You may also observe the dog raising and lowering his head. This indicates an unsure submissiveness with the lowering of the head and curious alertness trying to catch sight and/or scent of the intruder. Be sensitive to this dog's posture and approach slowly if you must approach at all.

4. Dominant Posture
The most obvious trait in this posture is the bristling hair most noticable in the shoulder area and the tail which will be raised. On closer inspection (take my word for it and don't approach this dog) the hair is raised all over the body. The dog's nose is wrinkled in this posture and the teeth are bared. The dog's ears are raised and forward and his stance will be slightly forward. The dog will probably be barking or growling but may not be.
DO NOT APPROACH THIS DOG! TURN SLIGHTLY SIDEWAYS TO THE DOG AND BACK AWAY SLOWLY WITHOUT LOOKING THE DOG IN THE EYES. EYE CONTACT IS CONSIDERED A THREAT OR CHALLENGE.

5. Defensive Posture
Just like people, no matter who you are or how you act there will be someone who doesn't like you.
This is seen in the dog's body being lowered, the ears back and the tail between the legs. The most obvious trait in this dog is also the hair being raised. When a dogs hair is on end he should be avoided at all cost. This dog can turn to dominance or aggression in an instant in an effort to protect itself.

6. Scared Posture
Looking at this dog you will notice the dog may not look directly at you for very long if at all, the body is lowered, the ears are back and the tail is down, again in an effort to make himself look as small and unopposing as possible. The dog make lick you and the corners of the mouth are back. The dog may also raise a paw. This is not always a trick the dog has learned, I believe it is a submissive gesture that makes it easier for the "antagonist" to turn the dog over into a totally submissive posture.

7. Submissive Posture
This is the most obvious because the dog will be on his back or side with the top legs raised exposing his belly and throat. This dog too will avoid eye contact, the tail will be between the legs, the corners of the mouth pulled back and ears and hair will be down and back. Dogs identify themselves by scent and to identify himself there may be an expulsion of urine. If you have a dog that does this, don't scold him because it reenforces your dominance and is actually encourageing the behavior. You should have a well behaved dog and maintain your authority, but the dog should feel confident and relaxed around you.

Just a pet?

2008-05-15T16:20:00.000-05:00

This article is taken from the Calling All Pets website. When it comes to dogs, Dr. McConnell is one of my favorite resources. Be sure to visit her websites.
by Patricia B. McConnell, PhD

I don't know how many times I've heard that line: "just a pet." Breeders use it: "Well, I don't like his coat color, so I guess he'll just be a pet." Writers use it: "It's remarkable how much money the American public spends on 'just their pets.'" And most amazing to me, pet owners use it: "We just adore our cat, she's the greatest joy of our lives, but we can't afford to spay her because she's 'just a pet.'"

I like to think of myself as a reasonably patient person, but I'm losing patience with those three words: "just a pet." I suppose it's because of what I do. I have spent the majority of my life working with people whose pets either bring them joy, relaxation, and love, or anxiety, frustration, and sometimes pure terror. One client's new dog carefully makes sure that her children don't go across a busy highway. Another mutilated her daughter's face. "Just a pet?" I don't think so.

In spite of our embarrassment about the importance of non-human animals in our lives, the stakes are very high here. Dogs, cats, horses, rabbits and birds have tremendous power over us and our lives, and "just pets" should be considered the most valuable and important animals that we raise.

It is constructive, I think, to ponder why we are so ambivalent about our companion animals -- both attracted to and embarrassed by our love for them. Yes, of course, some of us look pretty foolish treating our dogs like human infants, but the majority of pet owners love their animals for themselves. I don't agree (as some argue) that most of us "use" pets to make up for a gap in our interactions with humans. Rather, our relationship with our pets is unique: they give us things that no human can provide. Close connections between different species are not at all uncommon in the wild and in spite of our obvious differences with other animals, we are not that far apart from the rest of biology (thank heavens). I consider our close relationship with dogs, for example, to be a miracle of evolution and natural selection.

So, I don't apologize anymore for crying in the vet's office over a sick animal. I no longer feel embarrassed at the intensity of emotion I still feel when I grieve over Bo Peep, my beloved sheep guarding dog. And I proudly sell "pet" puppies for the same price and with the same guarantee as working livestock dogs. Just a pet? Not to me, and not to literally millions of people worldwide, whose companion animals can enrich their lives and bring them a form of love, joy, and biological affiliation not available in any other form. So the next time you go to buy a companion animal, explain that it's not to be "just" a show dog, mousing cat, or work horse, but an integral part of your family, and thus, more valuable than money can buy.

Color and Acuity Differences between Dogs and Humans

2008-05-09T16:13:00.000-05:00

by Jennifer Davis
Copyright © 1998

Most humans have the ability to see all the different colors of the electromagnetic spectrum, and consequently perceive all its' colors. [The color that is perceived is a result of the visual system, and not the spectrum itself.] Animals, such as the dog, are often thought of as being at a disadvantage by not being able to see all the hues of the spectrum. Evolutionarily however, the dog and the human each developed the visual system that worked best for them. Humans have depended on their diurnal ability and a sense of color throughout time to help them find food. Dogs on the other hand, were not originally diurnal animals, until humans domesticated them. Consequently, the ability to see at night was originally more important to the dog than color. After all, their prey is often camouflaged with the surroundings, so they are unable to rely on color vision cues as heavily as humans do to find food.

The retina of the eye is lined with both rods and cones in humans and dogs. The rods are much more prevalent in both species, but even more so in the dog than the human. The rods are adapted to work best in low light and are used for motion detection. The central retina of the canine eye contains about 20% cones, while humans have an area of 100% cones called the fovea. The cones work best in mid to high levels of light and have the ability to detect color.

Humans are believed to have three different cone types, a trichromat, while dogs have two, a dichromat. Each cone contains a photopigment that is maximally sensitive to a separate wavelength of light. These photopigments are what makes color vision possible. A human's three cone types are maximally sensitive at 445 nm, 535 nm, and 570 nm respectively. The canine cones are maximally sensitive at 429 nm and 555 nm.

The fact that dogs have two different types of cones does not mean that their brains have the ability to interpret the information that the rods and cones send. To determine what colors a dog can see, behavioral studies can be done. One such study conducted by Neitz, Geist and Jacobs involves three colored squares being placed in front of a dog. By training the dog to pick the odd colored square of the three, the researcher is able to guess what colors the dog can see. The question that then arose was if the dog was choosing the panel for it's color or due to it's brightness. It was found by use of different brightnesses for the squares that the dog was indeed choosing the square for the color and not brightness cues. Through these studies it has been suggested that an average dog sees similar to a human deuteranope, a person that is red-green colorblind. Consequently, the dog's world consists of yellows, blues, and grays. When a human perceives a red object it appears as yellow to the dog, while a green object appears as white, a shade of gray. This white region, also called the neutral point, occurs around 480 nm in visual spectrum. According to the electromagnetic spectrum, 480 nm would appear as a greenish-blue hue. All wavelengths longer than the neutral point are indistinguishable from one another to the dog and would all appear as yellow.

Visit http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/LA/davis2.htm for the rest of the article.

Researchers Peg East Asia as Origin of Co-Domestication

2008-04-27T16:11:00.000-05:00

By Rick Weiss
Washington Post Staff Writer
Thursday, November 21, 2002; 4:05 PM

Research has long indicated that all dogs, from prissy Pekingese to slobbering St. Bernards, are the domesticated descendants of wolves. But scientists have tussled like puppies over the question of when and where the transition from wild carnivore to newspaper-toting pet began -- and why, exactly, dogs and humans have gotten along so well.

Now a new analysis of dog DNA pegs East Asia as the place where wolves and people began their dance of co-domestication -- not Europe or the Middle East, as some experts have contended. The work also suggests that domestication began about 15,000 years ago, much more recently than some had previously concluded.

But it's an accompanying study, also being published today, that has dog-lovers really panting. In the first direct comparison of its kind between dogs and chimpanzees, dogs demonstrated an uncanny ability to interpret human communicative cues -- gleaning information from subtle hand gestures and even getting the meaning of a human glance -- while the brainy chimps remained clueless to what was going on.

It may not be news to dog owners, but now it can be said with scientific assurance: Centuries of selective breeding has created an animal that in some respects, at least, understands us even better than our closest primate cousins.

"It looks like there's been direct selection for dogs with the ability to read social cues in humans," said Brian Hare, a Harvard biological anthropologist who led the behavior study.

Scientists suspect that wolves hung around human hunter gatherers long before the first one was domesticated, perhaps in the hope of stealing scraps of food. Eventually, the theory goes, humans cajoled a few to help with hunting or guarding and began breeding those that proved to be the best companions.

Domestication, of course is a matter of perspective. Some experts suspect that a few clever wolves initiated the process, recognizing that free food and a warm home beats living in the wild. But while scientists may never know the motivations behind domestication, they have doggedly pursued its timing and location.

Bones from small, dog-like animals have been found in human archaeological sites dating back 100,000 years or more, but specimens older than about 10,000 years old are difficult to identify accurately, said Peter Savolainen of the Royal Institute of Technology in Sweden, who led one of three dog studies appearing in today's issue of the journal Science. "You can't say for sure whether they're from dogs or small wolves."

Savolainen's team counted the number of mutations within a particular stretch of so-called mitochondrial DNA in 654 dogs from Europe, Asia, Africa and Arctic America -- the largest such study ever conducted. Working with the common but not universally held understanding that such mutations occur about every 20,000 years, they calculated that domestic dog DNA first appeared about 15,000 years ago -- and perhaps 40,000 years ago in the less likely event that domestication started with just one or a few wolves rather than many.

That's much more recent than the 100,000 years ago that scientists had concluded from a smaller DNA study published five years ago. The difference is significant because dogs were clearly widespread around the world not much later, and such a rapid dispersal would be added evidence of their popularity and utility.

But some researchers said they don't trust the new numbers, in part because such calculations are inherently dependent on so many iffy assumptions. "I think it's still an open question," said Robert K. Wayne, the University of California, Los Angeles, evolutionary biologist who oversaw the older study that suggested a more distant date.

Savolainen's group also found that dogs from East Asia had the highest level of DNA variability, suggesting that canid domestication originated around there -- probably in eastern China or perhaps Japan. But this finding too faces challenges. Italian researchers have recently gathered evidence pointing to Italy as being home to the world's first dogs. And other scientists have said they stand by their claim that dogs first appeared in the Middle East -- perhaps in Israel or Iraq, in conjunction with the first agricultural settlements.

Whenever it happened, it was long before most of today's familiar breeds came into being. The vast majority of today's 400-plus breeds -- about 150 of them formally recognized by kennel associations -- did not come into being until intensive breeding came into a vogue a few hundred years ago.

In a second study, scientists present DNA evidence that even New World dogs are the offspring of East Asian wolves and are not the descendants of native American wolves. The first dogs in the New World apparently came along as newly domesticated companions when humans migrated from Asia to North America about 12,000 to 14,000 years ago.

"That tells us that dogs were very important," said Jennifer A. Leonard, now at the Smithsonian's National Museum of Natural History, who helped lead the study. "Remember, these are hunter gatherers in the Stone Age. They don't have a lot of stuff, and dogs have to be fed and to some extent taken care of."

No one knows what role dogs played so early in their domestication, Leonard said, but it may have included transportation as sled dogs, protection of food, or hunting assistance. There is also evidence that they played an important role in early Native American religious culture.

In a third report, researchers describe several experiments aimed at unveiling the biological and behavioral essence of the human-dog relationship. One experiment presented dogs and chimps with two boxes, one empty and the other containing a treat. The team tested the animals' ability to read hints from a person as to which box had the food -- hints such as pointing at the food box, tapping it, or even simply glancing at it. Dogs almost always picked up on the signals and picked the right box, while chimps performed no better than chance. (Experimental controls ensured that dogs were not simply smelling the food.)

Hare, the Harvard PhD candidate who designed the study after trying it out on his own two dogs at home, acknowledged that chimps perform better than dogs on many kinds of tests. "But in this simple task involving . . . communicative signaling with humans, chimpanzees fall flat on their faces," he said.

In a separate series of experiments comparing test performance in human-raised puppies, kennel-raised puppies, dogs, and wolves, Hare and his colleagues concluded that this communicative talent is not learned from human interaction during puppyhood and is not found in wolves. That suggests it has become an innate trait among dogs -- the result of individual dogs having been selected and bred over hundreds or thousands of years on the basis of their ability to "understand" their masters.

Raymond Coppinger, a professor of biology and dog expert at Hampshire College in Amherst, Mass., called the experiments a good start at understanding the dog mind, but emphasized that such experiments are difficult to design well.

"This argument about cognition and who has it has been going on since Aristotle," Coppinger said. "The thought that one article is going to answer it now for dogs is, well, you fill in the ending."

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